Crackside 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | K.Trout, K.Miller, R.Kirkpatrick, '70s (updated by D.Mabe 3/05) |
| Submitted By: | Darren Mabe on May 18, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: South Creek Side Wall:
F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p.
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Description Crackside follows the obvious, arching crack system on the right side of the south-facing Creek Side wall on the east side of tunnel 6. Approach by tyrol from the cottonwood tree to the belay pod of Guppy and Fish and Chips (small pine tree). Right bolted traverse (5.2) above the water (3 bolts) to a small rock perch and two bolt anchor.
Climb above the belay, clip a bolt and step into the arching crack. Jam the crack until it stops and traverse right (crux) to join with another crack. Continue up to a nice ledge with 2 bolt lowering anchor (90').
If you pay attention, your rope won't get wet when you pull it.
Crackside is fun moderate traditional route with great location, good pro, and classic movement between cracks.
Protection SR up to #3 Camalot. 3 protection bolts. 2 bolt rap anchor.
Crackside waiting for spring.
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A lovely climb; this pic is doing somewh...
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Crackside is better than sitting at home by a long...
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Dave enjoys the line.
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By Kim
May 31, 2005
rating: 5.9+
| What fun! This route has a beautiful crack system. The move between the cracks was a little dicey for me but well protected. This wall is well worth your time. |
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
May 17, 2009
| BTW, it's almost exactly 100' down to the good ledge. Good route. |
By Craig Quincy
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| Surprisingly fun route. The crux for me was clipping the bolt after the crack. I ended up climbing by the two bolts on the direct variation, but then going right to the lower anchor. |
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 24, 2012
rating: 5.9+
| FWIW, you can do this with a #1 Camalot and smaller rack. |
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