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Creek Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
100 Proof 
Are There Bolts Up There? 
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) 
Clown Loach (temporary name) 
Crackside Direct (var.) 
Fish and Chips 
Fool's Gold 
Golden Hammer, The 
Little Sister 
Macho Borracho 
Playin' Hooky 
Psychotic Love 
Rhett Wench 
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush 
Solid Gold 
Spun Gold 
Unknown Big Black Flake 

Crackside Direct (var.) 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: K.Trout, K.Miller, R.Kirkpatrick - '80s (updated by D.Mabe 3/05)
Page Views: 863
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on May 18, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: South Creek Side Wall:

F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p.


This is a variation to Crackside, but instead of stepping right when the arching crack ends, continue straight up on slightly more difficult face climbing (exciting!), clip a bolt, and beeline for the finger crack above. Then traverse left past a couple bolts to the rap anchors of Guppy. (120')

Rap 35m back to the pod belay where the tyrol is rigged. (You need either 70m rope or two ropes for the rappel.)

Crackside Direct provides an alternate way to eventually get back to the pod belay without having to reverse the traverse.

Eds. Note, in the event of wanting to/needing to bug off the top crux, you can traverse hard left into the Guppy finish.


SR to #2 Camalot and a few runners. 4 protection bolts. Finish on Guppy's anchors.

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