|North Quarry / Pinnacle Area
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This route does not look very good at first glance, but hidden in the lichen are some horizontal edges and good crimp holds. The first few moves, protected by gear, are difficult, and in some suspect rock. The hardest climbing is near the first bolt. I went with the guidebook rating for this one, but it felt easier than 11b. It is hard 5.10 in my opinion.
This is the crack to the right of Boobalaty which leads to a lichenous face with two bolts. The crack arcs right to left below the bolts. There is a two bolt coldshut anchor on top.
2 bolts and a small rack to a #2 Camalot. Two bolt coldshut anchor on top.
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Jay's description is spot on. Slightly spooky start with thin gear in rock that isn't 100%. The crux is tricky but not that difficult once you figure it out. There is a really good stance so you have a lot of time to try things out. The unwelded coldshuts are looking kind of rough.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Mar 8, 2013
I did this again today, and it still does not seem like 11b. I would call it 10d.