The Crackhouse is a small bouldering cave just north of Moab. Although there aren't many problems, the quality of those there more than makes up for any lack in quantity. About ten feet off the ground, the roof of the cave is split by a system of splitter cracks that offer up to about forty feet of continuous, all points in, horizontal roof crack climbing.
The cave is located on the North side of Gemini Bridges road, (very) roughly about half way between 191 and 313. I once tried to approach from the 191 pull off, but spent all day hiking and never found it. A much easier approach is from 313.
Take 191 North from Moab. Pass the Gemini Bridges pull off, and turn left on highway 313. Go somewhere around ten miles and turn left on Gemini bridges road. The road is marked and there is a large gravel pull-off on the Northeast corner of the intersection. From this side, the road is drivable by pretty much any car, but makes for a nice walk if you've got time. Either way, follow the signs to Gemini Bridges, which is pretty straight forward. Eventually, you'll see a sign telling you to park, and a walking trail breaks right that goes to the bridges. Rather than taking this turn, continue going straight on the road for about a quarter to half mile. The crackhouse is right off the road on you left. There is a pull off and you'll see two side-by-side entrances. You can't miss it. (It's 6.3 miles from the Gemini Bridges turn off to the cave)
Start in the Birth Canal and climb through fifty plus more feet of fists, twists, hands, and tight hands as you wind through a tunnel like cave. Next bust through a big hands dihedral where the crack goes vertical for a few feet, followed by ten or more feet of splitter tight hands that lead to an exciting finish. The Birth Canal is one crux and the end is a second crux, but endurance over the distance is the true challenge here. No individual section is any harder than 12- or so. This is wi...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Good description Jordan. Surprised that nothing from this area has been added already. If you havent been there make a point of it. Real tough but a lot of fun. I have a low clearance car that made it no problem. Inside the cave there is everything, thin, hands, and fist. And its completely overhanging with good landings! Once you get pumped inside the cave there is a great traverse outside of the cave. The traverse is long but there are no hard moves. Dont forget the tape.
Dean Potter sends the whole thing in some video. Stout! Started at the far right end traversing left down the lip for ~100' and then reverse the Birth Canal to get into the main roof crack. After this it's only 60+ feet (maybe longer) of horizontal roof jammin and it gets wide at the end as you get higher off of a progressively worse landing. At the very end you have to pull through nasty .75 camalot until you can do this messed up gaston move to establish above the roof. Worst fall potential at the end.
If you can send the traverse, that's pretty solid. If you can send the crack section you are a beast with some serious huevos. If you put the two together and do the whole thing, you are insane strong.