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Cracker Jack 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,905
Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Jan 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Mike leading CJ.

Description 

Obvious crack with 2 bolts. Where crack veers left go straight up face on plates.

Location 

The obvious crack on the left side of the main alcove.

Protection 

Mixed. A couple bolts but mostly natural pro. Chains for anchors. You can clip the chains from the top of Peanut Brittle and TR it.


Photos of Cracker Jack Slideshow Add Photo
Cracker Jack on lead.
Cracker Jack on lead.
Me on CJ - Photo by Joćo.
Me on CJ - Photo by Joćo.
Megan leading Cracker Jack
Megan leading Cracker Jack
Me on CJ - Photo by Joćo.
Me on CJ - Photo by Joćo.
Danny leading, Janelle on belay.
BETA PHOTO: Danny leading, Janelle on belay.
Mike leading CJ.
Mike leading CJ.
Cracker Jack on lead.
Cracker Jack on lead.

Comments on Cracker Jack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 7, 2012
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 28, 2009

If leading this crack, be advised the rock isn't stellar and may blow open causing gear placements to fail. Check out this pic of a cam I caught Meghan on after it blew the crack apart yet miraculously held. It blew open with such force that a projectile from it hit and sliced my hand.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 29, 2009

hey daryl-

thanks for sharing, and glad that cam held!!

based on the photo, it looks as if the cam was placed behind a 1-1.5" thick flake. generally speaking that's too thin to support the outward force a cam places on the rock during the fall (approx 4x of the force exerted on the piece). note that the inner lobes held in the region of the placement where the supporting rock was much thicker.

part of the problem, as you pointed out, may have been rock quality. additionally, had the cam been placed deeper (so that all four lobes were pushing against the thicker rock) this probably wouldn't have happened.

glad to hear everyone's OK! great picture. :)
By jbak
Apr 29, 2009

1.0 / sin (cam angle)
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 29, 2009

hey john-

that seems to calculate correctly - i think the BD cams are around a 13.5 degree cam angle - the outward force is 4.35x according to this equation.

i had calculated it by some roundabout way a while ago, but didn't have the formula on hand here at work! thanks. :)
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 29, 2009

I would have sat between both of you poindexters in trigacalcuometry and cheated like a filthy rat. Then again, forgo my blabbering and lead yer peaches off; as many have done. I watched Jimbo stretch this thing out on next to nothing.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 30, 2009

That's because Jimbo is a badass!

In all seriousness, though, the original message is getting lost behind all the math ... the moral of the story: place cams in beefy rock.
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 30, 2009

So you're saying if I take a large fall that generates 6kn of force on my cam then the cam generates 25kn of force on the rock. Rocks tough so that doesn't bother me but remembering my college physics day this means that the rock generates an equal force back on the cam (25kn). Makes me wonder how a cam rated at 12kn holds a large fall. Maybe that is why I'm always more comfortable with a bomber nut placement.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 30, 2009

mike,

I've gotta admit, a bomber nut is nice to have!

cams are rated for the downward force placed on them, not the outward force they exert. each lobe must be able to exert 1/4 (or 1/3 for a tcu) of the total outward force. so in the situation you describe, each lobe would have to support roughly a 6kn load. cams are tough!

it wouldn't be easy to generate 6kn in a typical leader fall, though, even when using a grigri, falling with little rope out, and coming close to the ground. jeff fassett and i measured an average of 4.9kN generated in a 10' leader falls with just over 20' of rope out. if using an plate (which i'd strongly suggest over a grigri for traditional climbing) the same falls generated an average of 4.0 kN.

of course, this will vary depending on the rope characteristics, mass of the climber, etc. or, if you're doing multipitch climbs and take a factor 2 fall on the anchor, that's just gonna hurt. :)
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jun 6, 2009

Full slideshow of Mike leading CJ.
By jbak
Jun 30, 2009

Stoppers are force multipliers too. Like using a wedge and sledge to split a log.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Dec 7, 2012

Burly, fun, sustained climbing. Enjoyed the finish moves over the headwall.