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Cracker Jack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998.
Page Views: 7,188
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

This starts up a steep finger and hand crack. After you move over the bulge, it gets considerably easier.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Eds. Note, there have been hangers missing at times on this climb!

Also, the quicklinks at the anchors were worn QUITE THIN! Now, someone has mostly generously replaced them!



Photos of Cracker Jack Slideshow Add Photo
Victor Tsai on Cracker Jack.  His foot jam was amazing!
Victor Tsai on Cracker Jack. His foot jam was ama...
Cracker Jack is fun! Ben did it on top rope.
BETA PHOTO: Cracker Jack is fun! Ben did it on top rope.
Steve Marr above the 3d bolt on Cracker Jack.
Steve Marr above the 3d bolt on Cracker Jack.
Climber pulling over the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Climber pulling over the crux.
Clipping the bolt right under the roof.  There is another clip you can get just above the roof before pulling it.
Clipping the bolt right under the roof. There is ...
Cracker Jack.
Cracker Jack.
Half worn through cold shuts replaced with hangers and chains on 11-10-03.
Half worn through cold shuts replaced with hangers...
Tara Brennan checking out the crux of Cracker Jack, 5.9.
Tara Brennan checking out the crux of Cracker Jack...
Comments on Cracker Jack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 10, 2013
By Hill
Mar 28, 2002

A one move wonder with easy climbing above the bulge. Not too shabby though!

By Wendie
Jun 25, 2002

Fun climb!! Look for the secret hold in the crack to get you over the bulge!

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 10, 2003

The lone cold shuts at the anchor of this climb were replaced with stainless steel Metolius hangers, quick links, and chains on 11/10/2003. Photos of the old shuts are below in the action photos.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 10, 2003

Like a fine wine, those shuts were just getting good!... at least it is good to know that some of those don't just break after years of abuse. Thanks for the upgrade.

By flynn
May 28, 2004

This may be the only line on High Wire where you can commit the Ultimate Crime at a sport area: jamming! Just kidding...it really is the easiest way to get past the bulge, IMHO. But I'm one of those sickos who thinks crack climbing is fun, anyway. :)

By Nate Oakes
May 15, 2006

A decent, looooong route... it really seems more like a 5.6 or 5.7 after the bulge. That "secret" hold in the crack is a beaut.

By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Jun 27, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Well bolted crux crack.

By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 19, 2008

Anyone know why this beautiful crack is bolted? There must be a good reason.

By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 31, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

The screw locks at the top of this route are getting fairly thin, although still strong. They should be replaced some time soon.

By mark solomon
From: Ashland, KY
Sep 28, 2008

The crux of this route (at the top of the bottom quarter of the route) is a BLAST! I did a layback, buddies went straight up the crack, and I'm sure there're other ways to get over it, too. The bolts are in great locations for protecting the crux, too. Once past this crux, it really is a 5.6 or so to the anchors, but a really run route.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Was this area of Colorado settled by totally unethical French immigrants? Bolts next to a good crack-line are very, very naughty.

VS 5a in UK grades, F5.

Carry a wire (Rock 4 or 5) as there's a good crack by the silly bolt without a hanger!

By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Another case of some idiot averaging a 10a crux move and 5.6ish climb and calling it a 5.8.

By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun climb slightly marred by unneeded bolts. Clipped one by the wide crack, but this is easily avoided if you have a #4 C4. Bomber gear through the crux and small and fiddly gear for the easy climbing above makes this a great gear lead.

Gear: black Alien-#4 C4, a good selection of small and medium wires.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 10, 2013

In October, Dale Haas and I added quicklinks and rappel rings to the anchor. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.