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 ADVANCED
Armora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Supposedly Fun Climb I'll Never Climb Again TR 
Austerity Measures S 
Cracked Wheat T,S 
Enkefet S 
Jegna Almotem T,S 
Oysters Balls TR 
Oysters Nuts T 
Poroto Gringo S 
Tara Gaga T 
Wei-Nei Gudei T,S 
Wendemé S 

Cracked Wheat 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Nicojah
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: nicojah on May 9, 2013

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Cracked Wheat on lead.

Description 

Cracked Wheat is the first mixed route bolted on Armora Gedel and called thus due to the farmer's wheat stalks that were growing at the base of the and lightly stomped over on the route's first ascent (by toprope).

This route, from a climbing perspective, may be considered the most complete route at Armora Gedel due to its many styles of climbing over high quality rock. Here you will try all types of moves, power, balance and stretch.

P1: This pitch is harder than the next pitch and requires pulling on slopers, small edges and careful balance. The first pitch is a sustained 5.10 and 5.10+ climbing with several cruxes throughout. There are two places for gear between bolts 1 & 2 & 3. After climbing the main face, after the 3rd bolt, traverse right on the pillar face and go straight up from there.

P2: Continue climbing the face of the pillar until reaching the top. Here you will see the 2nd bolt on the main face of the wall which requires stepping from the pillar onto the face and climbing over a tricky roof. Afterwards, the climbing is easy and there is a long crack for gear, then a couple bolts until the next crux where small edges and hidden sidepulls get you to the top.

Location 

This route is to the right of Oysters Nuts and starts on an orange face with several cracks. This climb is left of a large gully with lots of trees and plant life. You can't miss the first bolt 3 meters off the ground.

Protection 

P1: 7 bolts.
P2: 6 bolts.

10 quickdraws and mixed rack. TCUs size 1 - 2 are especially useful on the first pitch.

There are two bolt anchors with quicklinks at the top of each pitch.


Photos of Cracked Wheat Slideshow Add Photo
Cracked Wheat (on the right).
Cracked Wheat (on the right).
On P1 of Cracked Wheat.
On P1 of Cracked Wheat.
Climber Guy Pinjuv bring up the rear on the 2nd pitch of Cracked Wheat.
Climber Guy Pinjuv bring up the rear on the 2nd pi...

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