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Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
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A Supposedly Fun Climb I'll Never Climb Again TR 
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Cracked Wheat 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Nicojah
Page Views: 311
Submitted By: nicojah on May 9, 2013

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Cracked Wheat on lead.


Cracked Wheat was the first route bolted at the wall and called thus due to the farmer's wheat stalks that were growing at the base of the wall and lightly stomped over on the route's first ascent (by toprope).

This route, from a climbing perspective, has many styles of climbing over high quality rock. Here you will try all types of moves, power, balance and stretch.

P1: This pitch is harder than the next pitch and requires pulling on slopers, small edges and careful balance. The first pitch is a sustained 5.10+ climbing with several cruxes throughout. I added 2 more bolts in 2015 to make it completely sport.

P2: Continue climbing the face of the pillar until reaching the top. Here you will see the 2nd bolt on the main face of the wall which requires stepping from the pillar onto the face and climbing over a tricky roof. Afterwards, the climbing is easy and there is a long crack for gear, then a couple bolts until the next crux where small edges and hidden sidepulls get you to the top.


This route is to the right of Oysters Nuts and starts on an orange face with several cracks. This climb is left of a large gully with lots of trees and plant life. You can't miss the first bolt 3 meters off the ground.


P1: 9 bolts.
P2: 6 bolts. On this pitch there is a place for a small cam that will kill the run out. But the 5.9 sections of the rout are all bolt protected.

There are two bolt anchors with quicklinks at the top of each pitch.

Photos of Cracked Wheat Slideshow Add Photo
Cracked Wheat (on the right).
Cracked Wheat (on the right).
On P1 of Cracked Wheat.
On P1 of Cracked Wheat.
Climber Guy Pinjuv bring up the rear on the 2nd pi...
Climber Guy Pinjuv bring up the rear on the 2nd pi...

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