Crackalicious 5.12b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | FA Jonathan Clark August 2010 |
| Submitted By: | Jonathan Clark on Dec 6, 2010 |
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Crackalicious Birdsboro Pa West Wall
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Description This line follows the obvious crack system through the right facing corner on the left side of the West Wall.
Scramble up to the base of the corner passsing a bolt or two. Consider skipping these or back cleaning to avoid rope drag. Use caution as the rock quality is poor through this section. Jam and layback through a powerful sequence that is capped by a mini roof. Your efforts will be rewarded with a stance after the roof. Stem your way up to the anchors.
While eyeballing this line from a neighboring route, the crack through the crux has widened significantly since I was on this in 2010. Not sure if this is from aggressive cleaning or traffic, but I remember thin locks on razor sharp rock for a couple of moves below the mini roof. The top looks like it has cleaned up quite a bit.
Protection 8 bolts, ring anchors
| Comments on Crackalicious |
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By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Dec 6, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| As good as it gets at the Bird. |
By Jonathan Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Apr 30, 2012
| As good as it gets at Birdsboro is a bit of a stretch. It's certainly worth climbing, but there are a number of lines here that far exceed this in quality. |
By Chris Acosta
Mar 8, 2013
rating: 5.12b
| I have the FFA on this route forget the bolts that I origanelly put in! I left them in because birdsboro is a sport destination and there out of the way. But this climb is a awesome Trad line with Pg gear! |
By Jonathan Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Mar 18, 2013
| Chris,
While you got the first redpoint on gear (which is a commendable effort) you do not have the FFA. I was the first to redpoint and used the bolts for pro. There is only one FFA. There aren't separate FFAs for different protection schemes. |
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