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h. West Wall
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Crackalicious 
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Crackalicious 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA Jonathan Clark August 2010
Page Views: 1,371
Submitted By: Jon Clark on Dec 6, 2010
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Crackalicious Birdsboro Pa West Wall

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Description 

This line follows the obvious crack system through the right facing corner on the left side of the West Wall.

Scramble up to the base of the corner passsing a bolt or two. Consider skipping these or back cleaning to avoid rope drag. Use caution as the rock quality is poor through this section. Jam and layback through a powerful sequence that is capped by a mini roof. Your efforts will be rewarded with a stance after the roof. Stem your way up to the anchors.

While eyeballing this line from a neighboring route, the crack through the crux has widened significantly since I was on this in 2010. Not sure if this is from aggressive cleaning or traffic, but I remember thin locks on razor sharp rock for a couple of moves below the mini roof. The top looks like it has cleaned up quite a bit.


Protection 

8 bolts, ring anchors





Photos of Crackalicious Slideshow Add Photo
Crackalicious (left), Hot Pockets (right)
BETA PHOTO: Crackalicious (left), Hot Pockets (right)
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By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Dec 6, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

As good as it gets at the Bird.

By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Apr 30, 2012

As good as it gets at Birdsboro is a bit of a stretch. It's certainly worth climbing, but there are a number of lines here that far exceed this in quality.

By Chris Acosta
Mar 8, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I have the FFA on this route forget the bolts that I origanelly put in! I left them in because birdsboro is a sport destination and there out of the way. But this climb is a awesome Trad line with Pg gear!

By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Mar 18, 2013

Chris,

While you got the first redpoint on gear (which is a commendable effort) you do not have the FFA. I was the first to redpoint and used the bolts for pro. There is only one FFA. There aren't separate FFAs for different protection schemes.

By joeforte
From: palmerton, pa
May 28, 2013

I did this on gear back in 2010. A foothold broke after the crux and I fell on my onsight attempt. Later climbed it clean. I'm not sure why the bolts are there, but it is more dangerous to use the bolts, due to them being on the wrong side of the crack, and therefore the potential of them flipping you if you fall (the bolts always put the rope behind your leg).