After a hands roof crack pulling the lip is the Crux. Worth all you got!!
Starts in a crack just left of Smoking Guns. Head out roof crack. There is a cool knee bar against your right hand, that locks you in to free your left hand. Watch for your rope to get pinched in the crack as you climb above the roof. It merges into Smoking Guns and shares the anchors. On the FA I pulled a basket ball size boulder off just after the roof, managed to chuck it past my belayer, and still snag the Red Point. What a climb!!!
sm to md pro
From: Queen Creek AZ
May 2, 2011
I just got on it after almost a year of not really climbing. I Flashed Smoking guns so I thought I'd be able to hold my own on it. But alas I suck and I went home after back aiding with my tail between my legs:) Ill be back.