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Valley Boys 

Valley Boys 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: James Dickson
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 25, 2013
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Dave finds the crack entertaining.


This is an obvious line connecting cracks up the middle of the crag. It's easier than it looks, but it has a decent amount of fragile and detached flakes, so tug carefully.

Move up below a funky, proboscis-like bulge. Pass it on the left. Continue through another short crack. Pay attention to the flakes as you tug from here to the top.

There is a tall boulder and tree a bit further back to use for an anchor. We went to the Tetherly Designs line to rap off, but it is decently exposed. You may be able to walk off to the right.

For me, the abundance loose features made it hard to give it a star.


This goes up a set of discontinuous cracks up the middle of the crag.


The line can be protected with a rack to a #1 Camalot. For the anchor, an old size #3.5 and #4 Camalot and a tree can be used. Lots of slings help, perhaps 30+'. Be careful about having slings go over some of the loose blocks if you use the tree.

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Left crack.
Left crack.
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