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 ADVANCED
North Quarry / Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boobalaty T,TR 
Boobalaty (variation) T,TR 
Burly Man T 
Catching the Quarry S 
Chimney T,TR 
Crack TR 
Cracking Up T,S 
Girly Man S 
Hardly Huge Hanger Holes High Overhead (aka Homemade) S,TR 
Pinnacle East Crack T 
Pinnacle NE Face T 
Rubble Rouser T 
Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route S 
Unknown by Burly Man T 
Wide Pride T 

Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 15, 2011

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Dave gets to the crack feature above.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a less interesting line that misses a star rating due to rounding and is submitted for completion purposes. There is a bolted anchor above, so it may have been climbed before, but it remains distinctly loose, dirty, and licheny in spots. There are some flexing flakes, too. This may appeal to the adventurous sorts.

This line is to the right of Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route and left of Chimney. Start up on blocky terrain. There is a small, flexing flake on the right in here, so beware. It will be a bit challenging to get gear in this section. Stemming will bring you to the crack about at 3/5ths height. Jam the fingers widening to fists crack to the top. Move right to a two bolt anchor.

If you decide to do this and top rope it, a #3 or 3.5 Camalot may help for a directional at the top.

If you have a name or FA, let me know and I'll update the info.


Location 

This line is to the right of Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route and left of Chimney.


Protection 

It would be better to TR this from the 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Crack Slideshow Add Photo
The rope is hanging on the route.
BETA PHOTO: The rope is hanging on the route.
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Mar 5, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I would think the anchor is for the chimney on the right. It would not have been hard to put an anchor directly above the route. I used a #4 Camalot as a top rope directional. I did not find the flexing flake.