|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Glen Randall and Charlie Fowler-1982|
|Submitted By:||Dana Prosser on Sep 22, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Crack Wars||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
|The short finger crack on the last pitch is what gets you up to the final squeeze chimney (which is way easier to layback by the way).|
Aug 18, 2012
|Did this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. Definetly deserves more traffic|
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|This route felt haaard. 11b for me. A lot more OW (and squeeze chimney!) than I was expecting. Getting over the roof is tough for those with smaller hands and who can't really reach the foothold out and right of the roof. I basically aided the thing. Above the roof is some pretty hollow, loose rock, and heady climbing to the squeeze chimney right at the top (which I liebacked, by the way!) Interesting route.....not sure I'd do it again, but it does have some good climbing, especially on the lower pitches.|
By Drew Thayer
From: Laramie, WY
Nov 25, 2012
Awesome route! A good adventure out.
You can do this route dbl .5- 2 camalots, 3x #3 and #4 camalots, and 1 #5 camalot. Use a #3 and #4 for anchor after the 2nd pitch, a #2 and smaller cam for after 3rd pitch. The slot on pitch 3 is definitely the crux, just get funky and press it out.
In Nov 2012 the rap anchor atop Empirical Route (L of Crack Wars) was questionable at best; there's a very solid rap anchor on the N side of the Nuns that drops you down near Holier than Thou.
From: Oakridge, OR
Oct 14, 2013
I inadvertently linked 2&3 and didn't really have enough pro. I'd suggest 3x 3s & 3.5s (or new school 4s) and one 4.5 (new school 5). Don't see where a six would be handy.
Lots of cheese-grating off-fists for small hands.
I squeezed the top-out, but only after removing my harness (didn't think I had an effective belay by then). Otherwise it's an overhanging chicken-wing toe-heel thing. I'm skinny as fuck so plan to do that.
Crux for me was the roof. Seemed awkward.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Nov 3, 2015
We were comfortable with the following rack: small stoppers, 1x blue & green alien, 2x yellow alien/0.4 camalot; triples in 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3, 4 camalots, 2x 3.5 camalots/4 friends, and a new #5. More than others suggested, but we placed it all (perhaps not the blue alien but it's light to carry...)
P1 - 100', Mostly thin gear up to #3 camalot. 3x #0.75 & #1 were very nice.
P2 - ca 70'. Mostly larger gear, #3-3.5 cams for belay (small, wedge-shaped stance)
P3 - ca. 80'. Larger gear, easier than P2 (large cam(s) plus single bolt belay under roof. Can dump the #5 in the belay here.)
P4 - Small-large gear (crux #3, 3.5 camalots). Stoppers, 1-2 yellow alien pieces nice for summit belay.
P1 is stellar thin-hands; P2 is hard OW; P3 is relatively moderate wider crack; P4 has the roof crux followed by adventurous desert tower climbing. Long slings useful here.