Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] S 
More Of the Same (Assumed name) T 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

Crack Variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Chris Reveley and Diana Hunter, 1975.
Page Views: 18
Submitted By: Tony B on May 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Eagle Rock remains closed MORE INFO >>>


From the route Bihedral's mid-point, at the first belay, head hard right around something of a bulge until you are below a tiny conifer. Climb up the broken, lichenous rock with some intermittent seams and flaring cracks past the tree and up to the bottom of the huge headwall. Undercling up and left under the headwall past the fabulous looking crack, Thumb Tack and then continue left around a corner to the top of the bihedral and belay. The pitch is about 120' total from the belay on Rhodian Shores.

This is no place for a beginner, as the climbing is delicate and quite poorly protected. Lichen covers much of the rock.

This can also be done from the top of Rhodian Shores by moving up and left, past the roof that is just above you, and then hard right to the beginning of the "crack" as described. From there the climbing goes up and then up and left. If you want to do this all in 1 pitch from Rhodian Shores, you will either put in no pro until the real deal starts, or you'll have a lot of drag. I chose not to place pro, as the zig-zag climbing was easy.


There is not much pro, so a light rack is about right. You can place a mix of small cams and nuts to the top, where a few standard sized pieces are good.

Comments on Crack Variation Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!