Crack to Nowhere
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Standard Vedauwoo gear for Crack to Nowhere. Phot...
This is a classic Vedauwoo OW. The crux is in the first 20 feet where the crack does a dogleg to the left and overhangs a bit.
This is on the east side of Limbo Rock aka Upper Devil's Playground above a new 4 bolt sport route "Formicae
." From the top of that route, go up and left into a hidden alcove with two OW cracks. The right one is Crack to Nowhere. Walk off to the north or find the rap station for "Sara Palin's Drill
" a few feet to the SW.
#6 Camalot, Big Bros to 10 inches, a 14 inch Valley Giant or Big Bro for the top. It has natural anchors.
By Jim Brink
Sep 8, 2014
I spoke with Bob Scarpelli yesterday (9/7/14), and he says that he never did Crack to Nowhere, so I think my reported ascent is a first.