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Upper Devil's Playground
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Barbed Wire 
Crack to Nowhere 
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Day of Wrath 
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Meat Milkshake 
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Unsorted Routes:

Crack to Nowhere 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli, 1980s
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 273
Submitted By: Jim Brink on Sep 3, 2012
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Standard Vedauwoo gear for Crack to Nowhere. Phot...

Description 

This is a classic Vedauwoo OW. The crux is in the first 20 feet where the crack does a dogleg to the left and overhangs a bit.


Location 

This is on the east side of Limbo Rock aka Upper Devil's Playground above a new 4 bolt sport route "Formicae." From the top of that route, go up and left into a hidden alcove with two OW cracks. The right one is Crack to Nowhere. Walk off to the north or find the rap station for "Sara Palin's Drill" a few feet to the SW.


Protection 

#6 Camalot, Big Bros to 10 inches, a 14 inch Valley Giant or Big Bro for the top. It has natural anchors.



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By Jim Brink
Sep 4, 2012

Photo by Ben Boykin.