Crack to Nowhere  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Bob Scarpelli, 1980s New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Jim Brink on Sep 3, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Standard Vedauwoo gear for Crack to Nowhere. Phot...

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Description 

This is a classic Vedauwoo OW. The crux is in the first 20 feet where the crack does a dogleg to the left and overhangs a bit.

Location 

This is on the east side of Limbo Rock aka Upper Devil's Playground above a new 4 bolt sport route "Formicae." From the top of that route, go up and left into a hidden alcove with two OW cracks. The right one is Crack to Nowhere. Walk off to the north or find the rap station for "Sara Palin's Drill" a few feet to the SW.

Protection 

#6 Camalot, Big Bros to 10 inches, a 14 inch Valley Giant or Big Bro for the top. It has natural anchors.