Crack to Black  5.10c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Anonymous Coward on Aug 10, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route is approximately 100 feet left of Cactus Rose Wall. Find the semi-detached tower with two routes on it. Then look to the right, just right of the big chimney. There is a face with 3 bolts, the 3rd bolt has an old wad of sling on it.

This is a fairly good little route, although a bit short. Begin up the crack that is awkwardly shallow to get to the first bolt. Following the bolt line directly through the panel above is pretty hard for 10c, probably in the lower 11 range. I think that most people (of the grand total of 5 people that have likely ever climbed this route) hug the right side of the panel and use the crack. This puts the clipping in awkward positions, as knapp notes. It is also a bit pumpy for the right arm. Top out and find a tree for an anchor. Then scramble down the big chimney to the climber's left. all in all, a short bit of pretty decent shady climbing for the 5.10 climber on a hot day.

Protection 

3 bolts, no anchors.