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Crack Swindler 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,469
Submitted By: Teigon S. on Aug 22, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Photo courtesy of guy in fedora hat. I will take m...

Description 

This route is located in the crack directly left of Cracker Jack. I originally was going to traverse over to the anchors on the top of Deuces Wild, but when I got up there were old hangers on the needle. They looked as if they were placed a while ago but hardly used. Excellent Clear Creek trad!!!


Location 

Start on the shelf at the base of Cracker Jack and follow the obvious crack over the roof. Rap from either the chains at the top or do a fun hand traverse over to the top of Deuces Wild.


Protection 

Awesome at the cruxes, but run out the last 30 feet. I used up to a #2 Camalot and only a few nuts. Bring plenty of slings if you're scared of the runouts.



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Mark in the crack.
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By Teigon S.
Aug 22, 2011

Thanks for the anchors, and I also thought it was 5.6-5.7 but the people I had top rope it thought it was harder. Glad you like the name! Thanks again!

By Andrew Mayer
Apr 30, 2012

Climbed this one day last week. Fun little outing but not worth bring a rack up to high wire for IMHO. Also felt more like 5.7.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

I thought this was about 5.7 except for one move at the top near the anchors which I thought was 5.8-.