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This is the obvious crack just right of Drag Queen. Powerful moves off the deck in a steep fingers / hand crack gain a pod. Awkward moves out of the pod lead to some nice fist jams to the top. Some loose rock but overall an excellent climb.
Primarily small to large cams (to 4.5") and stoppers are sufficient for pro. Small to Medium cams are required to build an anchor. Rappel off of the anchor for Drag Queen.
the full route
Ben arriving at the grovely narrow chimney/offwidt...
view from the belay
Apr 22, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This route will eventually be a 4/5 star classic (4 stars here). The moderate amount of loose stuff will quickly clean up once it sees a few more ascents. One of the better crack routes in Josh.
|By Adam Kimmerly|
Nov 8, 2006
Sustained, powerful, quality crack climbing on a long pitch that requires everything from finger jams to OW/squeeze chimney moves. Slightly detracted by a few chossy sections, but still a 4-star route. One of my favorite JTree cracks.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2010
Walk-off option to the right (requires crawling through the small tunnel and topping out). For me the hand crack after the bulge was harder than the bulge, partly b/c it's slick with crumbly sections and partly b/c my non-finger crack technique leaves something to be desired.