I was wondering where a good spot to practice crack climbing can be found around the Sacramento area?

Hand and finger jamming is new to me so any practice would be great. Is there any where that has good single pitch crack climbs to work or top rope? Or possible boulder problems?

I've climbed Dinkum at C River Gorge which was great but short, anything similar in hand size?

Or for those who are more experienced where did you learn how to crack climb? (around northern california)

Thanks!

Granite Arch (Rancho Cordova). Tons of hands to finger cracks.

Other than that, you're gonna have to hit the crags.

I second Sal. GA has a good assortment of cracks of varying width, difficulty. The gym itself is pretty average otherwise although it is relatively affordable compared to other climbing gyms. Make some reusable tape gloves or you'll destroy the skin on your hands.

I heard there's some decent crack climbing here. :-)

Thanks. Are there any non gym options?
Yosemite would be great but i need places a little closer to home. And easier.
So far I've lead pretty much every 5.6 at lovers leap, but my lack of jamming technique is holding me back from progressing further. I would love to get on the line or other crack climbs but still need some practice.

Don't have much advice on crags, but what has helped me immensely is just finding a partner that climbs harder cracks and following/TRing them.

Cosumnes is the place to go. The cracks are short, like 30 feet but they all have top rope bolts so its easy and fast to set up and move trs.

Dinkum is the handcrack.

Info is on this site and in local guidebooks.

Have fun.

Unfortunately there is not really a great place in the closer sac valley to hone your crack skills.

As mentioned above Consumes has a few but is fairly limited. Probably the closest options are Sugarloaf, Phantom Spires, and Lover's Leap but those are going to be under snow for awhile now. In the summer when the days are long I have even been known to climb up at the leap after work.

This time of year I would have to say the Valley is your best bet. Stay on the sunny side of the valley and at the lower elevation crags. Locals often put up topropes on many of the climbs and you can rope solo many routes with a mini-traxion there this time of year at places like arch rock and the cookie.

For this exact reason I am considering building a 'crack machine' in my back yard.

Dinkum is a finger crack. I would check out Test Piece you can get some jams in that. I would second running laps on routes at consumnes if you prefer climbing outside.

If you have done all the 5.6 at the leap start knocking off the 5.7. I'm not sure what the conditions are like but you may want to check out the spires or sugarloaf for more 5.6 and 5.7 routes.

Following a stronger partner is an option.

Try 10 minute crack at consumnes, I can guarantee that your fingers will be ready for something else after a few laps on it! If you are confident on 5.7+ lead and the rocks are dry, cross the river and do the gutenburger direct, plenty of fun jams but the moss might make it a little sketchy in places! Pm me for some more beta if you want and I can send you some topo pics if you need! Have fun!

Thanks,
Whoa 10 minute crack looks a little tough (impossible :) ). Trying to break into 5.8 and am not the most confident on 5.7.

I did climb test piece at CRG, felt it was more of a lieback climb than jams, but i'll give it another go trying to jam more. Are you stemming with your feet or placing them in the crack?

Thanks again!

Hahaha impossible it may be...good to refine technique though! Ahh well unless you go with someone who knows the wall I'd hold off for a while!

Gina, I'm in the same boat, learned to climb in the crackless Mid-Atlantic, and haven't been in Sacto or a year.

Cosumnes seems to be the closest year-round crack track. I'm going to climb laps there tomorrow, in fact. Don't underestimate its value, I find that the more I climb routes that I instinctively liebacked at first sight, the more I find satisfying alternative jamming moves.

I'll leave a note here if I find other close alternatives, other than the generally non-winter spots at higher elevation (mostly the Spires, Lovers Leap and Donner Summit before leading 5.9).

Justin

Woodford's Canyon is a good winter spot when the temps rise. Also, the valley can be good year round depending on the weather. Cookie Cliff and Arch Rock are wonderful places to learn how to crack climb.