Crack of the Future  5.12c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Brady Libby 9/2007 Submitted By:  M Sprague on Oct 15, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Crack OF The Future

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Description 

A tour de force..a wonderful trad line that has been called one of the best crack climbs in NH, though it actually climbs more like a really fun intricate face climb, well protected by small wires and cams. You do have to know how to finger jam though. Good foot work is a must.

The White Owl Face has two classic finger cracks. This is the left hand, harder one, that shares the same start as the sport route that goes out the central flake, "The Owl Cliff Club". Where the sport route heads up and right, move left and follow the crack, making plenty use of the face holds, occasionally straying from the crack proper. You can catch a shake off to the left on a good hold before going for the final pumpy sequence at the top. Brady kept to the challenge of traditionally protecting his ascent and didn't make use of the starting bolts of "The OCC" and others since have kept to that style.

If you are up for it, this is not a route to miss.

Location 

Right about where the trail first bumps into the White Owl Face. It shares the same start with the big flake that makes up "The Owl Cliff Club", but follows the thin crack to it's left.

Protection 

Up to finger sized gear. Bring small wires and cams. The route shares the same start as a previous sport route, so it is possible to make use of the first few bolts, but most prefer to protect only using available natural gear. The gear is good for the most part, though care should be taken with the first couple pieces as they may not be as good as the rest for taking an outward pull. There is a modern 2 bolt anchor.

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BETA PHOTO: Here is another view that also shows a bit more of...