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White Owl Face and Laughing Owl Area
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White Owl 
Wide Owl 
Wingless 

Crack of the Future 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brady Libby 9/2007
Page Views: 883
Submitted By: M Sprague on Oct 15, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Here is another view that also shows a bit more of...

Description 

A tour de force..a wonderful trad line that has been called one of the best crack climbs in NH, though it actually climbs more like a really fun intricate face climb, well protected by small wires and cams. You do have to know how to finger jam though. Good foot work is a must.

The White Owl Face has two classic finger cracks. This is the left hand, harder one, that shares the same start as the sport route that goes out the central flake, "The Owl Cliff Club". Where the sport route heads up and right, move left and follow the crack, making plenty use of the face holds, occasionally straying from the crack proper. You can catch a shake off to the left on a good hold before going for the final pumpy sequence at the top. Brady kept to the challenge of traditionally protecting his ascent and didn't make use of the starting bolts of "The OCC" and others since have kept to that style.

If you are up for it, this is not a route to miss.


Location 

Right about where the trail first bumps into the White Owl Face. It shares the same start with the big flake that makes up "The Owl Cliff Club", but follows the thin crack to it's left.


Protection 

Up to finger sized gear. Bring small wires and cams. The route shares the same start as a previous sport route, so it is possible to make use of the first few bolts, but most prefer to protect only using available natural gear. The gear is good for the most part, though care should be taken with the first couple pieces as they may not be as good as the rest for taking an outward pull. There is a modern 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Crack of the Future Slideshow Add Photo
Brady keeping it pure on his 4 star trad route, Crack of the Future 12c, skipping the bolts on the start that shares with an earlier sport route, The Owl Cliff Club 12b/c, also classic. The gear would generally fall out as Brady climbed past it. I'd clip the bolts and save the gear for the good placements above. <br />Owl's Cliff Left, White Owl Face <br />Climber - Brady Libby
Brady keeping it pure on his 4 star trad route, Cr...
Crack OF The Future
Crack OF The Future
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 4, 2010

I don't have any decent action shots of this one. Bayard, if Jeremy got any good ones from when you were working it, that he is not guarding for his guide book, it would be cool to post a couple.

By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
Nov 5, 2010

Havn't seem any, when I talk to him next I'll mention it.