Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab)
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BETA PHOTO: Beginning of the route.
Starts as a hand/fist sized crack that can be jammed and gets progressively larger as it goes up (i.e. you can practically get inside the thing). After getting to a nice ledge walk up left to bolted anchor, but you may want to add a directional for your second first. If you like offwidths you might enjoy this, otherwise you might hate it.
This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.
In Precipice Right (i.e. up the Granite Stairs). To the right of a large roof (see Bartelby), locate a fist sized crack.
Probably want some large gear, the guidebook says #3, I used up to a #4. 2 bolt anchor at top shared with Bartelby and Sweet Surrender.
|Comments on Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab)
By Avi Katz
Jun 19, 2013
I placed 2 C4 #3's, 1 #1, 1 #2, a small nut, and walked a #4 a few feet. Not bad if you have some offwidth technique. Harder if you don't use the crack. Could use some serious gardening at the base.
From: Wayne, PA
May 27, 2015
I used a 4 and a 5, glad I had them. Very fun climb.
By Kurt G.
From: Reading, PA
Jun 27, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
felt a little sandbagged like some other climbs at south wall. BETA: no cams work at the top of the crack, its gets too wide. keep your eyes open for other placement, its there. fun climb even if it was a bit scary for me being new to trad leading.