|The Four Horsemen
An excellent yet neglected multi pitch crack route in the main area.
Pitch 1: 10.b
Start in the same corner system as Calamity Jam but climb out the right side of the bulge via a thin crack. The crack widens to hands above but stays on you for a ways. Move right to a bolted belay.
Pitch 2: 5.9
Some people break this into two pitches with a gear anchor if topping out.
From the bolted belay move up the corner above for about 12 feet before moving left into a different crack which splits the face to the left. Diagonal up and left in a nice crack for quite a ways (5.8)before it eases off and either belay or head up into the short but steep corner system (5.9) and belay at a bolted anchor (awkward belay).
Rap the route or Calamity Jam with a 60m or escape by traversing right and rap Cinnamon Slab.
Right of Calamity Jam, Left of Friday's Jinx
Gear to 3" with extra 1-3"
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Only had time for the first pitch, but it was awesome. I found it considerably harder than its neighbor, Pack Animal Direct. It stays in-your-face well after pulling the roof, but the gear is all there.