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Crack of Dust 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Beck, 1964
Season: any
Page Views: 3,921
Submitted By: mschlocker on Apr 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
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Leading up Crack of Dust, Mission Gorge.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thin flaring crack to the right of Mariah / Suzie's Wild Ride. Crux is pulling over the top with dirt for handholds. Feet can come out of the crack toward the top to smear. Bolt anchor at the top, but far back so extend it with your climbing rope. More climbs start from the top-out ledge.

Location 

To the right of Mariah / Suzie's Wild Ride by about 50 feet.

Protection 

Med-large nuts, #2 & .75 camalot is what I use. Save a .75 camalot w/ extension runner for the top.


Photos of Crack of Dust Slideshow Add Photo
great route to access upper main wall climbs
great route to access upper main wall climbs
Good photo of Crack of Dusk (5.8)
BETA PHOTO: Good photo of Crack of Dusk (5.8)
Malia on the Crack Of Dust
BETA PHOTO: Malia on the Crack Of Dust

Comments on Crack of Dust Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 25, 2015
By david baker
From: jamul, ca
Apr 5, 2006

When you get to the base of the main wall go left for 150 feet. You will see the obvious crack to the left of the Owl. The finish on this climb is slick as only Mission Gorge can be. Place an red alien near top of crack for finish. Climb is short and very protectable however, there is a ledge about a third of the way up that you could easily hit if you fall.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008

Real sweet climb. One o' these days I'll have to lead the durn thing.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
May 28, 2011

I agree the dirty finish is the best part.
By Rocky Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 17, 2011

Nice short fun crack climb. Yep it is dirty up top. Remember to wear helmet on this particular route as there are so many loose rocks up on the ledge of the route.
By ChrisRoyHarman
From: San Diego
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

You can use 3-4 cams on this route; BD C4 .4 .5 .75 & #1. The top of the route is extremely dirty with loose rocks, wear a helmet for this route.
By claudio ricardez
From: ESCONDIDO
May 21, 2012

I hit that ledge and luckily only sprained my ankle. Make sure you use correct length runners above the ledge. I should have used a shorter runner to avoid this mishap.
By ChaseLeoncini
From: San Diego, California
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Warning: the 3 bolt anchor on the wall atop this route (or at the start of 'Never Intended') has two fixed carabiners that have attained severe rope damage due to lowering off of them. Use caution when deciding to use these or replace.
By Ryan N
From: Bellingham, WA
Oct 13, 2012

Crack I'd definetly dusty/dirty. Watch the move as you pull out of the crack to the false topout. Great climb though and worth the mouthful of dirt.
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good climbing... Tie into the quack of ducks for additional crack climbing.
By lifeblack
Jun 20, 2014

Don't forget to have a helmet when you're pulling the rope, due to loose rocks/dirt up top

The fixed carabiners mentioned by ChaseLeoncini in 2012 have apparently been refreshed - it's now one rap ring, one chain, and one fixed biner, all in good condition.
By J--
From: Southern California
Dec 19, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I couldnít believe that I couldnít finish my lead up this crack!!! Maybe because it had just rained and the route was a little slimy (yes this is an excuse); I got almost to the top, slipped, and sprained my ankle. My vote is that this route is 5.10a, unless Iím missing some un-obvious yet bomber foot placement that makes this climb a 5.8. Anyone else think itís harder than 5.8?
By Winterparkmg
From: El Cajon, CA
May 8, 2015

Sorry J---, but while MG can get negativo on the traction and grip after rainy times (dirt and slime can jam things up and make life interesting), I vote that this stays a solid 5.8. At the top today, I belly flopped my way through a trough of DG dust and guano. So that sucked, sure. But I was just making it harder than it needed to be. I've led this one three times and climbed it more. It's fun and a pumpy warm up. But still only a 5.8 in my book. Go check it out in the fall. Maybe the summer traffic will clean er up for ya and it'll be fun again!!!
By J--
From: Southern California
Jul 25, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Point well taken Winterparkmg, And I will make it back to take another crack at crack of dust.
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