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Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel T 
Canary T 
Cat Burglar T 
Century T 
Crack of Doom T 
Damnation Crack T 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 
Das Musak S 
Devil's Fright T 
Hangdog T,TR 
Lucky Charms T 
MF Direct T 
MF Overhang T 
Midway T 
Midway Direct T 
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 
Old Gray Mare T 
Orange Peel T 
Rainbow Connection T,TR 
Rainshadow Direct S 
Saber T 
Saints T 
Satanic Verses T 
Slim Pickins T 
South Face, Jello Tower T 
Winter Solstice T 

Crack of Doom 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA Dan Davis FFA Jim Madsen
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 2,330
Submitted By: Karsten on Mar 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Starting Old Grey Mare to access Crack of Doom for...

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>


The crack climbs an interesting line up a wide crack and through a roof. The crux moves are physical but short lived. Once past the roof move right and link up with Canary.


The route can be accessed on the ledge system to the right of the Jello Tower. Be very careful as this rock is slick and has been the site of accidents. It is a smart idea to set an anchor on the ledge for the belayer.


Pro to #4 camalot

Photos of Crack of Doom Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Michael starting up Old Grey Mare to Crack of ...
Tom Michael starting up Old Grey Mare to Crack of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux section of Crack of Doom.
BETA PHOTO: The crux section of Crack of Doom.

Comments on Crack of Doom Add Comment
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By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 21, 2009

The access described above is basically the start of Winter Solstice. Another way to get to Crack of Doom is to climb the enjoyable route Old Gray Mare.
By Chris Keefe
Jul 22, 2012

Climbed comfortably with gear to 3". The moves around the overhanging roof crack (the main 4" piece) are protectable with mid-sized C4s.
By Shaun Johnson
Feb 24, 2013

At the top and slightly left of Crack of doom is a set of chain anchors that allow a 60 meter rope to reach back to loggers ledge. Great top rope set up!

Link Old Grey Mare into the crack to the right of the roof on COD for an awesome varied pitch!
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jun 13, 2014

Awesome to link old grey mare with this in one long pitch as Shaun suggested. I brought a 4# but not necessary also brought doubles of mid range, and again not necessary.
By rohanbk
Apr 24, 2015

As other people have mentioned, a #4 is useful for protecting the roof move. A light rack from 0.5 - #3 should suffice after pulling the roof, and the crux takes a bomber #0.75 C4.
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Feb 23, 2016

Instead of doing the roof move, climb a short slightly overhung finger crack right of the roof. Above the crack, move back left into the main COD crack. This way you don't need to bring the big pieces.

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