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 ADVANCED
Bronto Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buckeye 
Crack N' Up 
Junkie Thrill 
Penis Point-Peyronie’s Disease 
Riblet 
Stegasaurus 
Stinger 

Crack N' Up 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson and Denise Brown, January 1983
Page Views: 610
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Sep 9, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: "Crack N' Up.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This is a fun right-slanting crack on the southeast face. It is called "Junkie Thrill" in the 1992 Vogel guide.


Protection 

light rack



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By Rodger Raubach
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

I climbed this route in 1988 to set a toprope on "Stegasaurus," the line that can be seen forming an X with this route. "Stegasaurus" follows the dark , thin dike that is readily visible in the picture, and starts out as a thin crack at the bottom.

By Rodger Raubach
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Additional comment on Crack N' Up: it isn't any 5.4, as it is steep and kind of grungy, and the rock is crumbly. I'd agree with a 5.5-5.6 rating, but not the R suffix.

By Kevin Craig
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Definitely not R though you want a #1, 2, and 3 Camalot for the top (if you like lots of gear like I do). Felt pretty similar grade-wise to New Toy (5.6) across the way, but I climbed it early season and I'm not a huge fan of off-width, thrutchy climbing. Definitely worth doing if you're in the area, plus you can TR Stegosaurus from the bolted top-anchor.

By Rodger Raubach
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

The original Vogel guidbook (lavender one) called this Crack 'n' Up, as does the Bartlett guide. The rock is a bit crumbly and I gave this a 5.5 due to some of the holds crunching off...

This is a decent climb in order to set a top rope for "Stegasaurus."

By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Jun 5, 2012

5.6 move at top