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Crack Lover's Variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: D Lovejoy, J Sisson, 1971
Season: Fall (closed in spring)
Page Views: 2,026
Submitted By: Tavis Ricksecker on Jun 14, 2007
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Starting the 2nd pitch of Crack Lovers
Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>


A great way to spice things up! Depending on the variations you do, this route could be as easy as 5.7, but I will describe the most challenging way to go about it.

P1: Start just left of the first pitch of Reunion at an obvious wide hand/fist crack. Climb this (5.8) to a ledge with a tree.

P2: Climb up the dogleg crack in the face above the ledge (5.7) Above the dogleg, the crack makes a "Y". Continue straight up the beautiful fingercrack on the right to a belay on the ramp above (5.9)

For the next pitch, either climb the third pitch of Classic (5.7), or the second pitch of Karl's Corner (5.8) to the top of the Flying Buttress.

Rappel Coke Bottle, or continue up High Exposure (5.6+) or Beaver Cleaver (5.8+) to the top.

For an easier first pitch, do the first pitch of Reunion to the ledge with the tree instead.

For an easier second pitch, climb out left above the wide dogleg instead of straight up the thin fingers.


Located on the left side of the flying buttress, around the corner to the right from the start of Classic and just left of the start of Reunion.


Gear to 3 inches

Photos of Crack Lover's Variation Slideshow Add Photo
The final 5.9 finger crack on pitch 2
The final 5.9 finger crack on pitch 2
Just past the wide stuff, Emily getting ready for the thin finish.
Just past the wide stuff, Emily getting ready for ...
Comments on Crack Lover's Variation Add Comment
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By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

2nd pitch is great! The "5.9" fingers at the top is a bit soft for GM, but a good way to break into the grade.

By KyleKent
Oct 21, 2009

I would highly recommend gear to 4 inches unless you are very comfortable in the fist crack option of pitch 1. I feel that the start of this is the crux of the variation (5.9).

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 23, 2010

what's a dogleg crack?

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 24, 2010

hey jon- it's a crack with two obtuse angles spaced near 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up the pitch respectively; it resembles the shape of a dog's hind leg.