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Crack Land
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Crack Love 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns
New Route: Yes
Season: Not Winter
Page Views: 1,274
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jun 19, 2006
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Marga Powell at the second roof. The crux is gett...
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Description 

This is an excellent crack climb that begins about 75 feet up and left from THE ART OF WAR. Climb a V-slot and a good hand crack to a roof. Work left to a perfect hand crack and climb to second roof. Place gear, pull the roof (crux) and cruise to a stance beneath a tree with slings and 2 carabiners. Lower off.


Location 

Crack Love begins about 75 feet up and left from THE ART OF WAR. From the bottom of ART, follow the trail, hike up the talus 50 feet, then follow the trail up and right toward the NE Face. The route is obvious as you draw near the wall. Look for a clean V-slot above granite steps followed by a hand crack.


Protection 

Bring gear from 0.5 inch to 4 inches.



Photos of Crack Love Slideshow Add Photo
Richard Rossiter on the first ascent of Crack Love.
Richard Rossiter on the first ascent of Crack Love...
RR at the first roof.
RR at the first roof.
Crack Love and Crack Love II from below.
BETA PHOTO: Crack Love and Crack Love II from below.
Marga Powell making the airy step left under the lower roof.
Marga Powell making the airy step left under the l...
Crack Love.  Climb a V-slot, then a handcrack to a roof.  Make an airy traverse left, and climb up to another roof. Surmount that and continue to the top.
BETA PHOTO: Crack Love. Climb a V-slot, then a handcrack to a...
At the start.
At the start.
Comments on Crack Love Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

An excellent crack climb. The step left under the first roof is airy and fun; watch out for some loose chockstones in the wide crack under the roof. Getting into the V-slot above the second roof was the hardest move; it seemed about 5.9 by Boulder Canyon trad standards.

At the top, I lowered off two slings and two biners around a tree. The rope is likely to get caught in the finger crack at the second roof if you do this.

I sewed it up with the following pro: small and large wired nuts (#4 and #12 BD Stoppers), pink tricam, green Alien, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 2 #2 Camalots, #3 Camalot, and #4 Camalot.

Kudos to Richard and Pebby for all the hard work it took to clean the route, remove loose rock, and build a platform at the base of the climb.

By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2007

I agree with Ron's 5.9 rating; you can skip the #4 Camalot w/o compromising your safety. Also be careful about some loose rocks in the first roof (or yard on them like I did).

By Dpurf
From: Superior
Jul 28, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is the best of the 3, Crack of Love. Fun moves all the way. As for the rating it is no more than a 5.9, and that is comparing other 5.9 trad climbs in the canyon.

By Rebecca
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

There is a bit of difficulty with rope management on this climb as the overhang and crack at the top tends to "eat" the rope a bit. We had a situation with a totally jammed rope. Be careful when setting up to not get the rope stuck.

By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 2, 2012

Nice route. A #4 is not needed but is nice to have. The crux is pulling the 2nd roof.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jun 21, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a good climb. I did not place a #4 Camalot or any nuts. I used cams from a 0.4 Camalot to a #3 Camalot. It is about 5.9 in difficulty. I used a chimney move at the crux.