Crack Love III 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Not Winter |
| Submitted By: | Richard Rossiter on Jul 18, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the relationship of Crack Love, C...
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Description This is actually a 20-foot variation finish to Crack Love II; and a good one it is. Climb Crack Love II to the roof where the main route goes offwidth and fist. Pull 5 feet left beneath the roof and place gear, then make a very strenuous move to clear the roof and get established in the crack above (crux). Good hand and finger jams continue to the top of the wall and the anchor for Crack Love II.
It must be noted that Bruno Hache busted his butt cleaning this system and is commended and thanked for his hard work and contribution to the routes of Avalon.
Location This route is located on the upper left Northeast Face of Avalon. Follow the excellent trail beneath the Northeast Face to its low point beneath Ancient Light. Continue up the slope past two switchbacks to the obvious alcove and V-slot of Crack Love. Crack Love II/III is the crack system on the right.
Protection Gear only from 0.4 inches to 2.5 inches.
| Comments on Crack Love III |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| More direct if approached from below via Crack Love instead of the start to Crack Love II. Gear to pull the roof is placed blind and you wouldn't want to mess it up there, but I think the climb is easier than rated by a good margin. |
By Dpurf
From: Superior
Jul 28, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| I have to agree with Tony on the rating. Also to make it a better climb, start with Crack Love instead of going right to Crack Love II. I did it the way of Crack Love II and place a piece high in it before moving to the left. This may have made is easier. |
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