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 ADVANCED
Crack Land
Routes Sorted
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Ancient Fright S 
Ancient Light T,S 
Ancient Sight T 
Art Of War, The S 
Blade T 
Crack Love T 
Crack Love II T 
Crack Love III T 
Enemy Within, The T 
Ghost Ship T 
Mystery Ship S 
Mystery Tour T 
Resurrection T 
Ship of Fools T 
Thus Us T 
War Horse T,S 

Crack Love III 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Not Winter
Page Views: 1,106
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 18, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the relationship of Crack Love, C...
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Description 

This is actually a 20-foot variation finish to Crack Love II; and a good one it is. Climb Crack Love II to the roof where the main route goes offwidth and fist. Pull 5 feet left beneath the roof and place gear, then make a very strenuous move to clear the roof and get established in the crack above (crux). Good hand and finger jams continue to the top of the wall and the anchor for Crack Love II.

It must be noted that Bruno Hache busted his butt cleaning this system and is commended and thanked for his hard work and contribution to the routes of Avalon.


Location 

This route is located on the upper left Northeast Face of Avalon. Follow the excellent trail beneath the Northeast Face to its low point beneath Ancient Light. Continue up the slope past two switchbacks to the obvious alcove and V-slot of Crack Love. Crack Love II/III is the crack system on the right.


Protection 

Gear only from 0.4 inches to 2.5 inches.



Photos of Crack Love III Slideshow Add Photo
A little to the right with pro already placed at the crux roof.
A little to the right with pro already placed at t...
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

More direct if approached from below via Crack Love instead of the start to Crack Love II. Gear to pull the roof is placed blind and you wouldn't want to mess it up there, but I think the climb is easier than rated by a good margin.

By Dpurf
From: Superior
Jul 28, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I have to agree with Tony on the rating. Also to make it a better climb, start with Crack Love instead of going right to Crack Love II. I did it the way of Crack Love II and place a piece high in it before moving to the left. This may have made is easier.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought this was easier than the given rating. We came in from Crack Love, not Crack Love II.