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Crack Land
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient Fright S 
Ancient Light T,S 
Ancient Sight T 
Art Of War, The S 
Blade T 
Crack Love T 
Crack Love II T 
Crack Love III T 
Enemy Within, The T 
Ghost Ship T 
Mystery Ship S 
Mystery Tour T 
Resurrection T 
Ship of Fools T 
Thus Us T 
War Horse T,S 

Crack Love II 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Pebby Johns, and Bruno Haché
New Route: Yes
Season: Not Winter
Page Views: 2,022
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jun 24, 2006

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RR on the FA of Crack Love II. Photo by Joan John...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Sequel. This route begins 8 feet right of the obvious V-slot of Crack Love. Hike up a short ramp, then climb a finger and hand crack straight up to a roof. Pull the roof via hand jams and continue up a widening, slightly flared crack to the top. It is not very difficult, but it is a real crack climb on excellent rock.

Location 

Crack Love II is the penultimate route on the upper left Northeast Face of Avalon. It begins a few feet right of the obvious V-slot of Crack Love and perhaps 80 feet up and left from The Art of War.

Protection 

Gear only from 0.5 inch to 3.5 inches. 2 bolt anchor with rings at the top. Lower off 75'.


Photos of Crack Love II Slideshow Add Photo
Crack Love and Crack Love II from below.
BETA PHOTO: Crack Love and Crack Love II from below.
RR going for gear on the FA of Crack Love II.  Pho...
RR going for gear on the FA of Crack Love II. Pho...
RR placing gear on the FA of Crack Love II.  Photo...
RR placing gear on the FA of Crack Love II. Photo...
Marga Powell halfway up the pitch.
Marga Powell halfway up the pitch.

Comments on Crack Love II Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Another fun crack climb; a little wider than Crack Love, but just about as hard. Turning the roof into the wide crack near the top was the hardest spot. Seemed like 5.9 by Boulder Canyon trad standards.

I sewed it up with a #11 BD Stopper, blue tricam, green and yellow Aliens, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot, and 2 #4 Camalots.

There was a tree with two slings and a locking biner at the top; I didn't see a 2-bolt anchor.
By Richard Rossiter
Jul 18, 2006

A 2-bolt ring anchor is now in {as of 7-10-06) at the top of Crack Love II. The anchor also serves the finish to Crack Love III, a few feet to the left. A good stance affords easy threading. Lower off, 75 feet.
By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 3, 2012

Nicer line than the main Crack Love.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jun 21, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This is a good line, a little easier than the main Crack love. A good place to teach someone how to hand-jam.