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By Richard Rossiter
Jul 17, 2006
Avalon is a fairly complicated crag consisting of 3 large tiers set off by two broad ledge systems that span the whole crag horizontally.
The First Tier is not too formidable and is host to 9 routes that all face west on two different levels.
The Second Tier is more difficult to visualize and is host to 33 routes on a series of walls and slabs facing west and south that are stepped upward from left to right beginning with the Tarot Wall and ending with Wall of the Dead.
The Third Tier is host to 29 routes on five distinct facets: The Northeast Face, Wall of the Dragon, the West (or Upper) Gully, Wall of the Goddess and the Southwest Buttress with the route Black Tiger.
The broad Northeast Face includes the following 15 routes (all of which face northeast):
Crack Love II
Crack Love III
The Art of War
The Enemy Within
Ship of Fools
The West (Upper) Gully is host to five routes. To the right of Mystery Ship, the wall bends around to face west and climbs to a notch just east from the balanced rock atop the Wall of the Goddess. A fairly amazing chockstone or fallen block hovers over the gully to the south of the notch.
The west-facing Wall of the Dragon is located directly above the West Gully and is host to just two routes, or three counting the finish to Blade.
The Wall of the Goddess faces west and features several short (but good) routes.
Finally the Southwest Buttress has just two routes on very good rock.
All this should probably be listed under Avalon. I laid it out here to clarify the extent of the routes on the Northeast Face. For that matter the whole Northeast Face could appropriately be called CRACK LAND, since crack climbing is most of what it has to offer.
This should probably result in some minor changes in the outline of routes on this website for Avalon.
By Rich Farnham
Jul 9, 2009
I 'schwacked up to Crack Land yesterday to check it out. As many have said, there was an impressive amount of work done to create this area.
We made the mistake of coming up to Crack Land from the left (East) side of tier two. There was a faint trail, but it was mostly bushwhacking. Looking at pictures now it looks like you can access this area by going to the third tier on the better trail up the right side (passing Wall of the Dead), and crossing the ledge system below the third tier.
We didn't print out the MP info for the area before going (it wasn't the original destination), so we were "using the force". We ended up doing Thus Us and War Horse. The base of these routes is a tough place to hang out. It is a highly vegetated (stinging nettles), steep, loose hillside. RR (and others?) have done a lot of work to even establish a trail in this lush area, but I think we could do a bit more work at the base of this area. I'd be game to go do a bit of work up there this summer if anyone else wants to help.
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2010
Joey T, Tree, and Tim Brown climbing in Eldorado Canyon and Boulder Canyon's Crack Land.
Sep 23, 2012
This is a really good area. Definitely worth a trip, especially if you like climbing cracks. I think it has cleaned up well.
Thanks to everyone who put in the time, money, and effort to develop this area!
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