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Crack In The Woods
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Crack In The Woods 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: james Dunn
Page Views: 3,643
Submitted By: john strand on Jun 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: The business section of the Crack in the Woods.

Description 

Most people say that NH lacks good crack climbing- this is the exception. A fine hand crack in an overhanging corner. Nice rock.

I'd like to add:
I don't know who these haters are that say NH doesn't have good crack climbs but they are sorely mistaken. That being said, Yes, this is probably the finest crack climb in NH.

Expect perfect jams for most hand sizes all the way with the exception of a couple of Wide openings where you can choose your solution. It's the consistently steep pitch that will wear you down more than any particularly hard moves. There are a number of decent footholds out to the sides of the crack which give you a weapon to fight against the pump as you battle this beautiful beast. -Lee

Location 

It is about in the middle of the crag. You can't miss it. See updated directions in the main crag heading to get there.

Protection 

Cams to 3", a fixed rap/lower is in place.

Edit: Particularly perfect for #1 and #2 camalots. I'd say 3 of each of those and you would be all set though I placed a #4 on the lower pod and I found it convenient. -Lee


Photos of Crack In The Woods Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting up in to the roof about half way up.
Getting up in to the roof about half way up.
Rock Climbing Photo: A wider shot of the Me at the top of the climb on ...
A wider shot of the Me at the top of the climb on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the awesome roof. Gives you an ide...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the awesome roof. Gives you an ide...
Rock Climbing Photo: Led all on hexes!
Led all on hexes!
Rock Climbing Photo: pumping through the upper half
pumping through the upper half
Rock Climbing Photo: What!? that was the easiest solution I could think...
What!? that was the easiest solution I could think...

Comments on Crack In The Woods Add Comment
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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Alternate approach, recommended for the spring (don't try crossing the river...it's an easy way to go for a swim): Park at the Albany Covered Bridge Parking. On the north end of the bridge is the beginning of the Nanamocomuck Ski Trail. Take that for approximately 20-30 minutes west, until you see trees on the right, marked with orange paint (don't know who did this.) Follow the markers up until you hit a shallow drainage, and follow this uphill until you hit the cliff band. The Crack in the Woods should be pretty obvious.
-edit- See the updated directions in the main crag heading.
By trundlebum
From: Las Vegas NV
May 25, 2010

Just be very wary of killer, attack beavers on the approach!

Of course this is pretty much a joke as there could be no such beast in the woods of N.H, right?

I wish Jimmy Dunn would step in with a recount of his story.
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
May 25, 2010

Beaver ..I remember the night well .. About 2am Jimmy banging on my chalet door shouting bring the Jack Russells there is a beaver that just bit me in the backside! I thought yeah right and went back to sleep.. It did happen Jimmy sleeping in a drive way a few chalets down from mine when a beaver came and bit his arse . The Fish and Game department came and captured the Beaver for testing...I think just in case Jimmy had given the beaver rabies.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 8, 2010

Classic guys !!!! We can only follow this with the "Bears of Humphreys" and the famous "Tumbling Porcupine" of Whitehorse.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 9, 2016

I saw a porcupine out below Owl's that was so big I thought it was a bear at first. It was as big as a good sized dog. I heard some loud rummaging on the back side of a boulder I was sleeping under so I took my headlamp and gingerly peeked around and it scared the crap out of me. It hid under a cave on the same boulder, which kept me awake for a while wondering if it was rabid and would attack me. I restoked the fire and kept a big stick next to me, haha. Scarier than a bear.

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