Crack in the Woods 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Andrew Gram on Mar 17, 2004 |
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Start of a fun 5.9.
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Description Keep walking uphill from Crescent Crack past Mexican Crack until you see two chimneys and a couple of bolted routes. To the left of the chimneys is a 60' finger and thin hand crack - this is it. Climb a few feet up an easy chimney, and then climb the steep but bomber thin hands crack over a small bulge. Mostly 5.8 with a couple of harder moves. There are chains at the top, or better yet continue up Hand Jive.
Protection A light rack from small to hand sized.
Getting started on a nice December day.
| Howie seconding crack in the woods. Photo by me.
| 5.9? You can get a no hands before the crux!
| is it a hand crack? Is it a finger crack.? It is ...
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| Comments on Crack in the Woods |
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By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Apr 2, 2005 rating: 5.8+
| Just lead this after following it the first time. A very soft 5.9 if it is one. Great lead for breaking into the grade - gear is very easy to get anywhere you want it. |
By Nathan Fisher Apr 6, 2005 rating: 5.8+
| I would agree with Andrew after leading it for the first time this morning. It is a soft 5.9, and it gobbles up gear. It is a nice climb, just way short. |
By Anonymous Coward May 24, 2005
| It has long been assumed that these routes (crack in the woods and handjive) have their grades switched. Crack in the woods is closer to 5.8, while handjive seems more like a LCC 5.9. Maybe I am wrong, but have always felt this to be true, and many others do as well. What do you think? |
By Nathan Fisher May 24, 2005 rating: 5.8+
| That would make sense, cause I zipped up Crack in the Woods on lead, and Hand Jive on second caused me to gulp a couple of times. Although, in my defense the crux was wet and slippery still. I need to do it again now that it is drier. |
By Josh Petersen Jul 21, 2006 rating: 5.8+
| I thought the grade of this and Hand Jive were suspect the day I on-sighted this (supposed 5.9) and backed off Hand Jive before I even started up it. TCU's are great on this. |
By tytonic From: Salem, OR Nov 24, 2007 rating: 5.9-
| Fun route that would be better if it was longer and didn't have the chimney start. 5.8+ sounds like a good rating. The last 10-15 feet are really easy. Didn't have time to do Hand Jive. That just gives me an excuse to go climbing again. I agree that TCU's or other small cams woudld be great. I didn't have any and would've liked them. |
By Price From: SLC, UT May 4, 2009 rating: 5.8
| Umm ... yeah, there are some small hand jams, but fingers would be a more accurate description for most of this shorty. |
By Michael Buchanan Oct 21, 2009 rating: 5.8
| Lookinh through Dave Smiths Guide (Wasatch Granite) he gives Hand Jive a grade of 5.10ish in 1977. Crack in the Woods was not in the book, but I thought this climb was MUCH easier than other classic nines and even easier than the eights in the area. Would be three stars if it was longer. Just my two cents... |
By Tosh Peters From: Park City, UT Nov 6, 2009 rating: 5.9-
| Fun stuff. I think the name really reflects the route well, a quaint little climb. really good gear, wish the trasnfer to hand jive didnt look as scary. |
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Oct 24, 2011
| Great crack, great climbing - just to dang short! Would be interesting to try to link with Hand-Jive! |
By Charlie S From: Ogden, UT Jan 14, 2012 rating: 5.9
| Just climbed this on lead for the second time. This has got to be one of my Top 5 favorite routes. |
By Andrewprime1 From: Salt Lake City, UT Apr 9, 2012 rating: 5.8
| Fun little crack, a bit funky at first. Would have given it three stars if it was double the length. Definitely a good start to Hand Jive! |
By Alex Quitiquit From: Salt Lake City Apr 10, 2012 rating: 5.8+
| Crux at bottom protects well with .3 BD. Funky start, mellow finish. Do it, then Hand Jive. |
By Skat B From: Down Rodeo Oct 19, 2012 rating: 5.8
| This felt like a soft 5.8 cuz the crux is the first 15 feet. This takes #.3 and #.4 C4s very well. Basically,the higher you go, the easier this route gets. Slick but loaded with tons of bomber fingerlocks! Definitely a rad line to do for those who want to lead trad. |
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