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Mt. Moroni
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg T 
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2+ [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Les Ellison (4/84)
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 3,455
Submitted By: eDixon on Apr 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Les Ellison Impression (or at least an attemp)

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 (C2+ or 5.11 R) Climb right-facing corner to a ledge with bolted anchor.

P2 (C2) Follow the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to a bolted belay anchor.

P3 (C2) Continue up the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P4 (C1) Move back into the crack, which is now 1/2 - 3/4 inch, and climb to bolted anchor.

P5 (C2+) Move up from the anchor, then do a short pendulum to the right to gain a right-facing corner. Climb this to a sloping belay/bivy ledge.

P6 (C1 or 5.11a) Climb the 1.5 to 2 inch crack that ends with a section of offwidth/chimney.

P7 (5.9) Handcrack to chimney.

P8 (C1) "The Wormhole". Climb through the side slot passing apast a block on the left the wide chimney. #2 Camalot for belay.

P9 (5.9) Climb the handcrack in left-facing corner.

P10 (5.8, C2) Continue up crack (5.8) then right (C2) to top anchor.

TOPO 1

TOPO 2

Protection 

(2) sets small offsets nuts, (1) set nuts, (3) Black Alien - #3 Camalot, (1) #4 & #5(new) Camalot, hooks

Location 

Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni in the center of the tallest, most prominent buttress. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10-15 minutes, start looking for a faint path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall.

Descent 

Rap route or descend the back side of Mt. Moroni via a 75' rappel. Downclimb to a canyon, hike up canyon (north) to a pass, descend to Lady Mtn. Trail


Photos of Crack in the Cosmic Egg Slideshow Add Photo
Route follows crack system in the center of this steep face.
BETA PHOTO: Route follows crack system in the center of this s...
Pitch 1. A red alien is key for the crux. A fall will put you on the ground.
Pitch 1. A red alien is key for the crux. A fall w...
Following the pitch 2 splitter
Following the pitch 2 splitter
Following the short offwidth section on pitch 6
Following the short offwidth section on pitch 6
The Egg.
The Egg.
Kim Miller leading pitch 9
Kim Miller leading pitch 9
Cleaning the Wormhole pitch
BETA PHOTO: Cleaning the Wormhole pitch
P3
P3

Comments on Crack in the Cosmic Egg Add Comment
Show which comments
By AndrewinLyons
Aug 31, 2008

Here's a couple of links to McNamara's topos. It goes clean.

supertopo.com/topos/obscuritie...

supertopo.com/topos/obscuritie...
By Brian Sadowsky
From: salt lake city
Nov 11, 2008

I agree with C2+ for this route. Leave the hammer in the car. Great rock except for a couple of sections.
By EB
From: Winona
Mar 12, 2009

Great route. The first four pitches are the goods, while the upper pitches are just ok. The mac/ ammon variation to the wormhole looks better although there are some loose blocks on the following pitch. Also be ready for some biz on the last pitch, bring a hook! Pitch five is plush bivy as well. An obscure Zion classic.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 22, 2012

Fantastic Route! For the last "technical"pitch: Take a black diamond grappling hook along with a black diamond talon. If you are less than 6' the fixed pin is waaayyy out there. Also, I pulled a fixed pin out 15 feet from the top and had to use a loweball to pass this section. It would have sucked without that ball nut. Most anchors have new bolts, however bringing a handrill, some 1/2 rawls, and the skill to put them in would be a great thing to do to any of the belay or rappel anchors that need a little t.l.c. A classic Wasatch Route!


-tda
By peicker
Mar 19, 2013

A heads up to all who climb this route: There is a pretty sizable (3.5ft x 1ft x 3in) oblong boulder sitting on the ledge on top of pitch three. I almost dislodged it. It would be really bad to send that thing down on those below you. Also, we pulled a rock off about the size of a coffee can today while rappelling the route.

The route itself was great! Only got through pitch 7 on the original route due to weather concerns, but overall the climbing was sustained and a lot of fun.
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Mar 21, 2013

Rappel/anchor bolts are bomber up through the top of pitch six on the Original Variation. Top of pitch seven is one drilled angle and one star drive with Leeper hanger. The protection bolts were all bomber star drives with Leeper hangers.
By Alexosaurus
May 6, 2013

The block which was sitting on the ledge at the belay of pitch three is no more - we sent him down two days ago.