|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||C Miller on Jan 15, 2010|
|Comments on Crack Dream||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Both button head anchor bolts at the top are spinners, and the decomposing granite does not promote using a trad anchor. The protection on this route is difficult at best in decomposing granite (not secure). The majority of the crack is flaring; offset cams might work better. Not recommended for a budding trad leader. Might as well solo the damn thing; I definitely wouldn't want to test any of my pieces on it with a fall.
However, the moves are enjoyable, and this is one of the only trad lines in Horseman's Center.
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 7, 2012
|Pro is not that bad. I really don't think it 5.8 after climbing in Josh all winter.|