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Climb the obvious zig-zag crack system, mostly hands, which splits the west face of the crag. Gear belay and walk off.
Left side of the west face.
Gear to 3"
Crack Dream (Lightening Crack)
|By Nelson Day|
From: Victorville, CA
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Both button head anchor bolts at the top are spinners, and the decomposing granite does not promote using a trad anchor. The protection on this route is difficult at best in decomposing granite (not secure). The majority of the crack is flaring; offset cams might work better. Not recommended for a budding trad leader. Might as well solo the damn thing; I definitely wouldn't want to test any of my pieces on it with a fall.
However, the moves are enjoyable, and this is one of the only trad lines in Horseman's Center.
|By Rob Selter|
From: running springs Ca
Apr 7, 2012
Pro is not that bad. I really don't think it 5.8 after climbing in Josh all winter.