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 ADVANCED
Beaver Street Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bolt Route S,TR 
Crack Direct T,TR 
Crack, The T 
Right of Direct Start T,TR 

Crack Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,179
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Description 

Instead of starting out on the crack, climb the face directly below the vertical section of the crack. The crux is below any pro, so don't fall until you get up to the crack.


Protection 

Friends to 2 1/2" and nuts.

There are also chains on the top of the crack, which can be accessed climbing the wall (5.0) through the trees on the left (street) side of the main wall. Go the the edge, and then follow the fence for thirty feet.



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By Brian Snider
From: NorCal
Apr 30, 2010

The tree to access the top is gone. We've been asked not to take the 5.0 route because of all the choss that gets knocked off on to the side walk and cars below. Please use steps near AK rock to avoid issues with the residents.

By ReeDogNight
Apr 30, 2010

This is a fun route. Balancing on your toes with not much for hands until you get to the crack.
Be aware that people do walk their dogs here. It's rare but sometimes people don't pack out the dog doop like they should.
One unlucky day my buddy ended up with poo on his rope.

By Brian Snider
From: NorCal
Apr 30, 2010

Its true. One more reason not to step on your rope.

By Andy Wall
Jul 27, 2013

Here's a variant: when you get to just below the mirror, don't follow the crack. Go up the right side. It's 2-3 moves, then you're back on the main track, but it's fun.