|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]|
|Submitted By:||Mike Roghaar on Apr 3, 2010|
|BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Crack Class||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Las Vegas
Sep 16, 2011
|Found the #1 and .75 camalot sizes to work well. Don't forget Cool Crack to the left!|
By Greg Barnes
May 30, 2012
|The 2nd pitch step-across and slab traverse to the crack are X rated in my opinion - a fall would likely see the rope simply fall down the offwidth and you'd deck into the rock/slab somewhere way down there (assuming the rope didn't cut on something deep in the offwidth).|
By B Light
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 20, 2014
I am a conservative/safe climber. My rack's are usually more than most people would take, but I like to sow it up.
X Rating is legit for the step across. Not more than 5.7.. but still X.
Doubles .3-3, Single Yellow C3
Extra .75's for the first pitch
Extra #1's for the second pitch
1st Pitch- The arching crack is the hard part. Eats up .75's and a few #1's.
After that it is hero hand crack (#2's #3's).
Anchor ... could use .3's and .4's & Yellow C3.
The Chimney is extremely secure and fun... until you have to step across. Take a moment to figure out your best line.
After the step across it is awesome 5.8 thin hands (this the upper section of Cool Crack).
Anchor - Take it to the chains of Pre-emtive Strike.