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Indian Creek
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Blood on the Nuts T 
Country Lovin T 
Crack Attack T 
Fibrulator T 
Jim's Dihedral T 
Slimy Creatures T 

Crack Attack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Bailey Chuck Keller Steve Faulkner Dave Foster Dave Wilson
Page Views: 5,545
Submitted By: Chad Wagner on Apr 14, 2009

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Perfect hand crack. Might as well be a jug haul.

Description 

Scramble up to the ledge where this beautiful splitter crack begins. Push past the low roof with tight hands and prepare for one of the best handcracks in the red. Jam for the next 60 feet in the parallel sided crack until you hit the fist and offwidth section but its short lived. Clip the anchors and remind your self that your in the Red.

Location 

Walk towards the Fibrulator and pass it staying along the wall. The next line you come across will be Crack Attack.

Protection 

Multiple Camming units in the hand size and a fist size. This crack doesn't vary much in size so bring at least 4 #2 camalots or equivilent to stretch it thin.


Photos of Crack Attack Slideshow Add Photo
James crushing it
James crushing it
Crack Attack
BETA PHOTO: Crack Attack
So good!
So good!
Partner, Matt Inoue. Got some good shots from a couple fellow climbers.
Partner, Matt Inoue. Got some good shots from a co...
Sam getting ready to climb Crack Attack
Sam getting ready to climb Crack Attack
me on lead almost to the top of crack attack, Ed Hall was nice enough to follow me up and spot for the first move...
me on lead almost to the top of crack attack, Ed H...
Getting wider....
Getting wider....

Comments on Crack Attack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Prewitt
Apr 28, 2009

On a couple occasions I recall there being a damp section in the middle of the crack around where it doglegs right. Not enough to stay away, but a little more interesting that way.
Excellent splitter. Makes you rethink why this is called Indian Creek Crag.
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Nov 11, 2009

I don't entirely agree about bringing four #2's... the crack does vary a bit. I was able to safely do it with two #1's, two #2's, and two #3's, plus draws for the anchors.
By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

one of the best cracks in the south!!
By Peter L K
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jun 7, 2010

I'm curious what this would be graded if it was at the real Indian Creek.
By Matt Glue
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2010

Awesome climb! Wish it went on forever :) Yea, can be done with 2 each of #1, #2, #3. But the more #2s the better...
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Mar 20, 2011

I placed four golds, four reds, two blues, and a green and felt comfortable. You can certainly do with less, but if you are a crack wuss like me, a bigger rack might make you feel more comfortable. Also, I may have broken my foot jamming this thing.
By Kevin DB
Aug 30, 2014

"I'm curious what this would be graded if it was at the real Indian Creek."

Probably 5.10-
By Chad Wagner
Sep 11, 2014

Indian Creek grade would probably stand true at 9+. Its so varied that it may not warrant a 10, and very short for creek standards. And about pro, I soloed it last time I was there so you don't need gear at all. TOOT TOOT, yep that's my own horn. My friends felt good with(camalots) 1-1 3-2 2-3 and 1-3.5 and that's about every 6.5 feet. And they all agreed the top felt hard.