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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Crack Attack 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 10,016
Submitted By: Ben F on May 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (150)
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Danger Dan Wright at home.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As you face the cliff, this route is towards the left end. Keep walking left until you see a non-generic crack with a small A-shaped roof almost half way up the line. You won't miss it - it's striking. This crack starts wide, goes to fist-large hands in a flaring slot, hits the small roof and then leads to less than favorable sizes until you reach the anchor ledge. The business above the roof is mainly a steep section with thin hands to rattly fingers until you are just about at the ledge. This climb is nice because it varies in size and it actually has a few nice face hold on it. It's not a bad choice for the beginning 11- Creek leader.

Protection 

This route has a nice fixed anchor at a small ledge roughly 90 feet off the deck. You can belay from up here if someone is seconding the route. For gear, bring a set of cams from #1 to #5 Friends. Doubles are only needed for 1.75, 2 and possibly the 2.5 and 1.5 Friends (bring triples if you're worried). There are also a couple opportunities for large bomber stoppers.


Photos of Crack Attack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the splitter above the chockstone roof mo...
Enjoying the splitter above the chockstone roof mo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kurt starting the thin hands of crack attack
Kurt starting the thin hands of crack attack
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Smith leading Crack Attack at the Montrail Spl...
Jay Smith leading Crack Attack at the Montrail Spl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Crack Attack at the bulge in the center of t...
BETA PHOTO: Me on Crack Attack at the bulge in the center of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Keo Bolton leading Crack Attack.
Keo Bolton leading Crack Attack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Crack Attack near the top.
BETA PHOTO: Me on Crack Attack near the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fett Attack
Fett Attack
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseffa Meir leads Crack Attack (11-)'.  Photo by ...
Joseffa Meir leads Crack Attack (11-)'. Photo by ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack Attack
Crack Attack
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb follows 'Crack Attack (11-)'. Photo by J...
Tony Bubb follows 'Crack Attack (11-)'. Photo by J...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kurt cruising crack attack
Kurt cruising crack attack
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack Attack, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, Indian...
Crack Attack, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, Indian...
Rock Climbing Photo: Keo high on the thin final section.
Keo high on the thin final section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack Attack, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, Indian...
Crack Attack, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, Indian...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack Attack
Crack Attack
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Beth Lim
Photo by Beth Lim

Comments on Crack Attack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 9, 2013
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2001
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I have both lead and followed this route and did not think it necessary to have a wide cam to protect it. 1.5-2.5" cams were the crux pro, as the upper section is thin hands. Fun route.
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Nov 9, 2001

The larger cam can be placed lower on the climb for added comfort. Look at the bottom and see if you want to protect the lower section. If not, then don't bring anything larger than a 3.5 Friend (1 will do).
By Anonymous Coward
May 17, 2002

I brought 3 #4 friends and placed them all, and I am an extemely confident leader.
By Rob Dillon
Apr 6, 2004

I really enjoyed the variety and elegance of movement on this one-- it's a lot more interesting.than yr. typical monotonous I.C. enduro-fest.
By Anthony Everhart
Mar 14, 2005

This is a great route to climb but lots of the rock is shitty. There is a way to climb it that doesn't involve touching the large block that sounds real nice and solid (chimney to the face hold & span the block.) If you look at the climb you'll notice the slot under the roof is going to get larger when the roof falls out. After the roof/block there is more not solid rock leading to a section of hollow splitter! Great variety though.

I would be solid on this one, there are many other low 11's to take a ride on.

A. Everhart
By superagave
Feb 28, 2006

Tony and Ben are both right (just like an after school special). The big cam isn't needed, but it sure adds to the comfort. I will say that if you do opt for the biggun, put a long runner on it.
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Oct 15, 2006

Varied climbing with a thin hands finish. I highly recommend this one.
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I used only 1 #3 camalot on this one. I probably used one #2, many (six or more) #1's, several (3?) #.75's, one #.5, and a yellow TCU for the roof, plus at least 3 slings to reduce rope drad. This is really a great route! My favorite at the Creek so far, and definately my proudest onsight. Exposed, techinical, difficult without being overly pumpy. Oh yeah, and I yarded on all the 'loose' blocks and nothing bad happened. :)
By Bob Rotert
Mar 2, 2008

Just an FYI since the FA wasn't listed for this write up. Jay Smith did the FA on this classic.
By Lon Black
Apr 2, 2008

One of my favorite lines at the Creek...varied and 5.fun. Excellent pitch.

A #5 C4 protects the top of the wider section. A couple climbers said pro in this section wasn't needed. It isn't needed. No pro is needed, but if you don't want to take a 20 foot fall, you might wanna place it.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 26, 2011

Way, way easier than scarface which is also rated 11-.

Walk your 4 up the starting crack. Then a 3, a 2, and a 1 before you bust over the roof. A 2 after the roof, then maybe 2 1s, and 3 .75s.
By Crotch Robbins
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Felt harder than Scarface for my big hands. Great route.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 24, 2012

If you don't have a big cam for the start, it's pretty easy to protect the finger crack on the right with anything between blue and yellow aliens. No problem to do this if you have your leg all the way in the wide crack, or if you are liebacking.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2013

I agree with the above comment that a small cam works in lieu of a big one at the start. I got in a red c3, but can also understand the desire to place a #5 at the start as well. Brought 1 #4 for the pod/flare thing. As the above comments also state, there's quite a bit of funky rock on this throughout the route. There was a particular rock that is in the pod about 3/4ths of the way up the route that I tried to trundle, but was unable to get it out by hand.

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