Crack Attack 

I have both lead and followed this route and did not think it necessary to have a wide cam to protect it. 1.5-2.5" cams were the crux pro, as the upper section is thin hands. Fun route.

The larger cam can be placed lower on the climb for added comfort. Look at the bottom and see if you want to protect the lower section. If not, then don't bring anything larger than a 3.5 Friend (1 will do).

I brought 3 #4 friends and placed them all, and I am an extemely confident leader.

I really enjoyed the variety and elegance of movement on this one-- it's a lot more interesting.than yr. typical monotonous I.C. enduro-fest.

This is a great route to climb but lots of the rock is shitty. There is a way to climb it that doesn't involve touching the large block that sounds real nice and solid (chimney to the face hold & span the block.) If you look at the climb you'll notice the slot under the roof is going to get larger when the roof falls out. After the roof/block there is more not solid rock leading to a section of hollow splitter! Great variety though.

I would be solid on this one, there are many other low 11's to take a ride on.

A. Everhart

Tony and Ben are both right (just like an after school special). The big cam isn't needed, but it sure adds to the comfort. I will say that if you do opt for the biggun, put a long runner on it.

Varied climbing with a thin hands finish. I highly recommend this one.

I used only 1 #3 camalot on this one. I probably used one #2, many (six or more) #1's, several (3?) #.75's, one #.5, and a yellow TCU for the roof, plus at least 3 slings to reduce rope drad. This is really a great route! My favorite at the Creek so far, and definately my proudest onsight. Exposed, techinical, difficult without being overly pumpy. Oh yeah, and I yarded on all the 'loose' blocks and nothing bad happened. :)

Just an FYI since the FA wasn't listed for this write up. Jay Smith did the FA on this classic.

One of my favorite lines at the Creek...varied and 5.fun. Excellent pitch.

A #5 C4 protects the top of the wider section. A couple climbers said pro in this section wasn't needed. It isn't needed. No pro is needed, but if you don't want to take a 20 foot fall, you might wanna place it.

Way, way easier than scarface which is also rated 11-.

Walk your 4 up the starting crack. Then a 3, a 2, and a 1 before you bust over the roof. A 2 after the roof, then maybe 2 1s, and 3 .75s.

Felt harder than Scarface for my big hands. Great route.

If you don't have a big cam for the start, it's pretty easy to protect the finger crack on the right with anything between blue and yellow aliens. No problem to do this if you have your leg all the way in the wide crack, or if you are liebacking.

I agree with the above comment that a small cam works in lieu of a big one at the start. I got in a red c3, but can also understand the desire to place a #5 at the start as well. Brought 1 #4 for the pod/flare thing. As the above comments also state, there's quite a bit of funky rock on this throughout the route. There was a particular rock that is in the pod about 3/4ths of the way up the route that I tried to trundle, but was unable to get it out by hand.