Crack a no go  5.12

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Max Tepfer on May 5, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Thin and bouldery, this climb requires precise, powerful movements on the tiniest gear. That being said, it's fairly easy to top-rope yourself through all the hard moves, so, objectively, it's not really all that frightening. It's also one of the few uncontrived (or maybe least contrived) face climbs at the crag.

Start with technicial moves on good crimps to a solid foot on the arete and a no-hands. Place your first gear and set up for the crux stab to a jug. Fire in more gear and work out the easier but awkward lie-backing before the crack starts to open up. A final lunge off a tips-lock to the ledge and it's over. After manteling onto the ledge, choose your line to the chains.

Location 

Crack a No Go is the thin seam that splits the leaning face immediately left of Limp Dick and right of Satisfaction.

Protection 

One blue ballnut, (or two if you want to double up on your first piece) two red ballnuts, and a grey Metolius will see you through the business. Bring whatever else you want for whichever line you pick off the ledge.