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half-swallowed by the terrific OW finish of Crack ...
Cool, burly route. Splitter as the others in the Corridor, but not as straight forward. The climb starts off with 5.9 hand/fist jamming but becomes increasingly more difficult as the crack widens. The crux is three-quarters of the way up at the roof/bulge. Climb through the roof with awkward fist and arm bar moves while stemming your feet on face holds. This part is burly! Over the roof is more wide-crack climbing to the top out.
This splitter crack is located in Isles Corridor. Approach the Isles in the Sky crag by scrambling up third and fourth class slab. On the ledge where Bird of Fire is, keep walking left around the wall past Dolphin and Nectar. Scramble up and over the slab on your right to find Isles Corridor. Immediately on your left is a 5.2 crack up the slab, which can be used as a descent from the formation. Alternatively, rap or lower from the slung rock above the routes.
Crack #6 is on the left, to the right of Grounder, Crack #4 and Crack #5.
Lots and lots of wide hand sizes. You'll need some big pieces for the top, too (offwidth).
BETA PHOTO: Sweet hand, fist and offwidth climbing.
Leading near the top of Crack #6.
abandoning my good crack technique and settling fo...
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
May 14, 2006
Great climb! Very fun. I didn't use much offwidth technique on this climb. Laybacking the crux seems to work well.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 28, 2007
good lord, do not try to fist jam through the bulge- that'd crank the grade up considerably. good footwork, stemming, and liebacking works much better and keeps the grade at around .10a.
From: Oakland CA
Jan 9, 2012
I jammed the crux and found it to be tougher than 10a. Second breezed through on the lieback and called me a sucker. Fun crack.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 11, 2012
That's right, c.i.! You get that rope up there for me-- pretty or not!
Man, that fist-jamming-and-then-wrong-side-inna-flare memory will keep me giggling for a long time. Next time it'll be my turn to lead it for you. :)