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5.11d R S 
Body Crack T 
Climbers Just Want To Have Fun! T 
Corn Flakes S 
Crack 5.7 T 
Despondent S 
Jim Dandy T,S 
Spread 'Em T 
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Crack 5.7 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Dean Cool on May 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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First pitch.

Some routes are closed MORE INFO >>>


P1. The first pitch climbs a short crack on quality rock to a two bolt anchor.

P2. The second pitch climbs up broken cracks and ledges through the most right crack system to a two bolt anchor at the top.

You can either rap with one 60 meter rope or walk off.


Start in a hand crack on the Southwestern face between "Climbers Just Want To Have Fun!" and "Chimney, 5.6."


Rack up to 3".

Comments on Crack 5.7 Add Comment
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By Owen Darrow
From: Garmisch,
Dec 3, 2010

Great climb with a solid crack. You can get 2 knuckles in most of this crack all the way up. Great first or second trad lead.
By George Bracksieck
Dec 9, 2010

Owen Darrow wrote: "Great climb with a solid crack. You can get 2 knuckles in most of this crack all the way up. Great first or second trad lead."

In the interest of climbers looking for their first trad leads, this is a dangerous choice. For one thing, I feel that it's almost as difficult as the bolted 5.9 just to the left. Furthermore, I had to fiddle to get less-than-bombproof pro through the first 15 feet or so: My first piece was a 0.5 Tri-cam cammed in a shallow slot at about 10 feet; a semi-blind, shallow placement of a green Camalot at about 12 feet; and an endwise Stopper at about 15 feet. The first hand jam and easy cam placement was found at about 20 feet. If you blindly trust gear placements that are really incapable of stopping a leader fall, then you may think protection is easy.

The thin crack on the second pitch was of similar difficulty and required placing tiny and small Camalots, plus a couple wires. For decades, I've been leading 5.10 trad routes around North America and have enjoyed many old-school sandbags. However, sandbagging novice leaders is NOT in the interest of the climbing community.

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