|By George Bracksieck|
Dec 9, 2010
In the interest of climbers looking for their first trad leads, this is a dangerous choice. For one thing, I feel that it's almost as difficult as the bolted 5.9 just to the left. Furthermore, I had to fiddle to get less-than-bombproof pro through the first 15 feet or so: My first piece was a 0.5 Tri-cam cammed in a shallow slot at about 10 feet; a semi-blind, shallow placement of a green Camalot at about 12 feet; and an endwise Stopper at about 15 feet. The first hand jam and easy cam placement was found at about 20 feet. If you blindly trust gear placements that are really incapable of stopping a leader fall, then you may think protection is easy.
The thin crack on the second pitch was of similar difficulty and required placing tiny and small Camalots, plus a couple wires. For decades, I've been leading 5.10 trad routes around North America and have enjoyed many old-school sandbags. However, sandbagging novice leaders is NOT in the interest of the climbing community.