Crack 5 5.9+
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BETA PHOTO: The Y-shaped crack is Crack #5. The left fo...
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Description Great, splitter route! Rated 5.9+ in the Vogel Joshua Tree guide but so straight forward that 5.9 is more apt if you've wired your handjamming technique. Towards the top the crack forks: continue up the left side for more of the same handjamming (5.9) or go right for a steep fingers section (5.10a/b). Take the right fork for an exciting, pumpy finish (highly recommended)!
Location This splitter crack is located in Isles Corridor. Approach the Isles in the Sky crag by scrambling up third and fourth class slab. On the ledge where Bird of Fire is, keep walking left around the wall past Dolphin and Nectar. Scramble up and over the slab on your right to find Isles Corridor. Immediately on your left is a 5.2 crack up the slab, which can be used as a descent from the formation. Alternatively, rap or lower from the slung rock above the routes.
Crack #5 is the Y-shaped crack to the right of Crack #4. Heading left at the fork continues the 5.9 hands, while heading right is steep 5.10a/b fingers.
Protection Lots and lots of hand to wide-hand size gear. If you plan on finishing with the fingers section, take a couple finger sizes (I placed two yellow Metolius here). Nuts may be useful for the finger section, as well.
Laybacking near the top of Crack #5.
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By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
May 14, 2006
rating: 5.9
| Excellent climb, very well protected. |
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Dec 29, 2009
rating: 5.9
| This climb is fantastic! Bomber handjams with features for you left foot the whole way up. I didn't seem to feel any cruxes, although it is sustained. |
By Simon Hatfield
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| Tried this one and backed off about 12ft up, mangling my hands in the process. I'd really recommend taping up for this area, even if you usually don't. Excellent rock quality though, and the corridor is a really special place, especially if you have it to yourselves (which is fairly likely). |
By Richard Shore
Dec 26, 2010
| SPLITTER! I thought it was a difficult route for my big mitts. Never got a secure hand jam through the crux. Mostly thin hands for me. I like 9+. Difficulty is hand size dependent. |
By Cochran949
Jan 22, 2012
| Did this two weekends ago. Surprisingly great rock in a secluded corridor. Easy approach up the gully. Left new webbing (black) for the slung block rap and removed a very old and tattered (yellow) piece. Dual rap rings look good. Time it right and treat yourself to an incredible sunset view. |
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