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The direct start is a 15' face of vertical unvarnished sandstone nubs to a short section of unvarnished slab. If led, this is a PG section and a spotter is recommended. The alternate approach is to traverse the lower slab from the blocks at the base of Crack 1.
Another good fingers and thin hands crack, with more surface fractures (varnish has broken off leaving pockets of sandstone beneath) for your feet. This is the 'stickiest' of the three cracks for your feet and not as intense as either Crack 1 or 2. Lead or TR this climb and use the Crack 1 anchors.
Small gear (wires and cams to #1 camalot). Use the Crack 1 anchors (15' traverse at the end of the crack).
Steve Thomas on the crux of Crack 3.
Steve leading Crack 3.
|By Greg D|
Oct 15, 2009
Cracks 1, 2 and 3 are not even close to vertical.
|By Josh Cameron|
Jun 12, 2011
If you've done Crack 1, then give this guy a go. I felt it was slightly harder than the previous. For the upper half, I used small cams from a #1 to #3 Metolius. I liked the nature of this route: slab climbing on small nubins to a thin and inconsistent crack.
|By Chris Perkins|
From: Avon, Colorado
Oct 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This has 3 bolts on the lower section now. Not sure when they were added.