C.P.O.S.  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  FFA: Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers, Lynn Wheeler 1984 Submitted By:  ldsclimber on Aug 13, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

James Huntsman starting off strong.

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Description 

Classic Piece Of Sh#! is just that A classic that will ever bring up frustrating and grueling memories. The route lies just around the corner to the right of the mega classic Mexican Crack. It starts in a left facing dihedral above a slabby ramp. It's steep, pumpy ,and very sequencial. The lower section climbs an easy crack with juggy flakes to the left. There is a shared bolt with the very cool Less Than Zero. After this point the climbing is in your face. The Crux is a left handed jam with a right hand crimp high in the crack.and move your feet on to a bulge in the crack. Taller guys will be major scrunched and every one will be wiggin out. I've blown it many times here, pulling gear and falling a lot farther than expected Woot! woo! Keep hold of the crimp and slide into another left hand jam. A good stem is to be had witch allows for a moment to collect your thoughts for the move around the arete. Feel for the nubbins and commit to the other face. From here it's smooth sailing to the chains following a finger crack.

Protection 

Rack
2 Green Aliens
2 Yellow Aliens
2 .5 BD
1 .75 BD
1 #1 BD
1 #2 BD
1 #3 BD
1 long sling to decrease rope drag around the arete

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turning the corner

james pulling the crux move