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Cozyhang 10a Variation 
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Umph Slot, The 

Cozyhang 10a Variation 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,384
Submitted By: Mike C. Robinson on Jun 7, 2007
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Description 

The gear is great on this variation. The crux is pulling around the bulge and onto the face.


Location 

Instead of going up to the 7+ second pitch A frame, just stick to the obvious hand crack that is toward the top of the dihedral. Pull around right via hand jams, over the bulge on smeared feet and reach out right to a side pull and a crystal finger jug on the face.


Protection 

Wild Country cams size 1-2. Have 3 of them to protect the hand crack that follows just under the highest part of the Cozyhang/Umph Slot dihedral.



Comments on Cozyhang 10a Variation Add Comment
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By Tom T
Jun 22, 2008

Isn't this the same route as Cozy Overhang? It seems like a double entry to me...but I could be wrong.

By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 16, 2008

No, not a double entry at all. This pitch takes a direct line out the roof above Owl Ledge.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Hard for a 10a? maybe? I could not figure it out for the life of me. I guess I just suck at hand jamming.

By S. F. Pitman
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 1, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This seemed harder than 10a to me. I'm pretty sure that the new guidebook lists this as 10d, but I might be reading it wrong. I am very short (5'6"), and had to use a combination of hand jamming, dyno, and no feet to make it through the crux (which protects very well). The lack of feet made it feel like 10+ to me. Again, I'm short so this may not be true for everyone.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 24, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Finally got this today. You definitely need to be able to jam if you want to make it. I can't comment on the grade.

By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
May 9, 2011

It's 5 fun.

By Dragin
Jun 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I've done this one a couple times...the key is getting your feet in the same diagonal crack you are jamming - I was almost horizontal through the whole crux, but it really didn't seem to difficult, just pumpy.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 2, 2011

I am 5'3" so the route is not height dependent....