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pulling the crux.
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Cruise up the first pitch of Cozyhang
. At a pin above the first roof, veer right and set a belay in this little shelf. If you were to continue up, you would travel through an easy chimney; however, you will climb left and out an overhang. (The Cozyhang
belay is just below you). Stuff a piece of pro up and into a big block, and extend the piece to minimize the rope drag. A sequence of crimpers and a high step will move over and through the crux. Another piece of pro will get you to the top of the flake. A number of exits are possible from here. This is a unique alternative to all the over-climbed routes on the Dome.
Protection is run out at the crux.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 21, 2003
Actually, you can climb this without crimpers. The crack is good. It is more entertaining than the normal finish and protects well. Go for it. (easy for 5.10a)
By JOEY T
Feb 23, 2003
Speaking from a competent Free Climber. It does not matter how we get there, as long as we get there. Using crimpers or the crack is irrelevant. These route descriptions are a general tool for people to get started. Thanx for your comment.JOEYT
From: New Haven, CT
Aug 27, 2008
Using the description above, I thought I was getting on this route. Turns out I was on Pussycat. Oh well.