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Claim Jumper Wall
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Better Luck Next Time S 
Blue Sky Mine S 
Bobbing for Ear Snax  T 
Brewed Awakening T 
Bum Steer S 
Bye Chimney T 
Chaps My Hide S 
Claim Jumper S 
Colonial Ear Wax T 
Coyotes in the Henhouse S 
Dos Dose T 
Green Goblin T 
Hangin' Judge, The S 
Lady Luck S 
Lucky Cuss S 
Mad Season S 
Necktie Party S 
One Armed Bandit S 
Papper, The S 
Public Hanging S 

Coyotes in the Henhouse 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Sam Owings, Tony Egnozzi & Kevin Duck, 1995
Page Views: 5,141
Submitted By: C Miller on May 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (114)
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Keli Balo climbs Coyotes in the Henhouse (5.10d), ...

Description 

The thin and somewhat reachy start on small edges is the crux, and after the second bolt enjoyable moves on large but somewhat questionable holds lead to the finishing bulge, which is rife with excellent incuts making for a spectacular and enjoyable finish.

A classic of the area and a highly recommeded route for the grade.

Location 

Right side of the face between Brewed Awakening and Public Hanging.

Protection 

8 bolts, sport anchors


Photos of Coyotes in the Henhouse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Checking it out before checking it off!
Checking it out before checking it off!
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the chains on Coyotes in the Henhouse (5....
Clipping the chains on Coyotes in the Henhouse (5....
Rock Climbing Photo: Another nice rest
Another nice rest
Rock Climbing Photo: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.

Comments on Coyotes in the Henhouse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 21, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route. Technical up to and passing the 1st bolt, and then a great sequence to round the overlap. Fun climbing on big hollow flakes finishes it off.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Holcomb Valley's best? Certainly a candidate.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Sep 7, 2009

Started this one with the low undercling to the crimps above, strenuous to the first bolt, then holds increase in size. Move left before reaching the roof on Public Hanging and continue up on sharp flakes. Rest where you can, the finish is a pull over a small roof.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Did this yesterday again and it's been a long time but I still think this is one of HVP's best. The wonderful athletic moves through the mid-section are extremly satisfying. Boulder problem start.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 5, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bouldery start may be the crux. This route climbs very nice and has a series of easy boulder problems, with nicely placed blots and rests. Excellent route.
By Phil Esra
May 4, 2014

Plenty of 10d and 11a routes all over HVP that don't have cruxes anywhere near as hard as the start of this one!
By Coon
May 16, 2014

Awesome diverse set of moves that get you up this one. Im surprised the paper thin flakes havent pulled off, they feel like theyre going to break in your hands.
By Cole Paiement
Jun 13, 2016

I can't think of a single 10d sport climb anywhere that I like more than this one. The bolts are all very well placed, the climbing is mostly easy and fun with a few more challenging sequences, and it is long enough to feel full value.

That said, the moves up to the first bolt are fairly difficult and there are some pretty polished feet by Holcomb standards. Anyone who is not confident leading 10d should consider stick clipping the first bolt.

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