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Courthouse Butte
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Coyote Tower 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Burcham and ??
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 10,839
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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pat brown leading the last pitch of coyote tower

Description 

Coyote Tower is an exceptional route with lots of good pitches. From the summit, the views are really cool as well and you'll be amazed at how high up you get. Start as described below.

P1) Climb up multi-bulge face (5.8) with bolts to a fixed anchor above. Then scramble up to the base of the second pitch up and left.

P2) Crux pitch. There are a couple stiff spots on this pitch, but basically climb in crack system left of a buttress, with an overhanging tight-hands crack at the top to a fixed belay.

P3) Climb up into slot behind the top of the buttress and tunnel right behind it until you can exit to the right. A couple of face moves up and further right will put you on top of the limestone layer and a fixed anchor. Short pitch.

P4) Climb crack above and right of the anchor to good shelf with fixed anchors.

P5) Fingercrack in corner, good layback crack. Then short offwidth section leading to "dirt clod" (be careful not to damage this!). Surmount the dirt clod and climb up to a ledge in corner with anchors.

P6) Climb up nice steep finger crack (5.9) to flat summit. I found the moves right at the top to be the crux on this one.

Descent: Since I climbed this route, the rappels have been moved. Call the Flag gym to see if they have updated info.

Location 

Coyote Tower is a long slim tower formation that clings to the southeast corner of Courthouse Butte. To reach the start of the route, you have to hike below the tower on the flats until you're just past it and then scramble up ledges and slabs to reach the start atop a rounded buttress.

Protection 

Standard rack, Nuts, cams from 1/2" to #4 Camalot size. Bolts will be found on the first two pitches.


Photos of Coyote Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Second to last pitch, slightly sketchy rock at sta...
BETA PHOTO: Second to last pitch, slightly sketchy rock at sta...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Are you allright, do yo need a rescue?"...
"Are you allright, do yo need a rescue?"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a quick, best recollection of the Coyote T...
BETA PHOTO: Here is a quick, best recollection of the Coyote T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coyote Tower  photo by D. Mabe
Coyote Tower photo by D. Mabe
Rock Climbing Photo: Marcy and Geir on pitch 4 of Coyote Tower
Marcy and Geir on pitch 4 of Coyote Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the summit of Coyote Tower
Looking down from the summit of Coyote Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Q at the top of p2 in the steep hands section.
Q at the top of p2 in the steep hands section.
Rock Climbing Photo: dj telle and richard miranda on the 4th pitch. (pi...
dj telle and richard miranda on the 4th pitch. (pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up the sixth pitch. January 2013.
Leading up the sixth pitch. January 2013.
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the second pitch.
Overview of the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Coyote Tower
BETA PHOTO: Coyote Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: My favorite pitch....
My favorite pitch....
Rock Climbing Photo: approaching Coyote Tower on Courthouse Butte.  Rou...
BETA PHOTO: approaching Coyote Tower on Courthouse Butte. Rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit is a very contemplative place.
The summit is a very contemplative place.
Rock Climbing Photo: It can be a bit awkward....
It can be a bit awkward....
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Millis is beginning the climb's overhanging cr...
Dan Millis is beginning the climb's overhanging cr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Surpassing the infamous pod at the top of P2. &quo...
Surpassing the infamous pod at the top of P2. &quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tucker Tech on pitch one..a bit heads up.
Tucker Tech on pitch one..a bit heads up.
Rock Climbing Photo: view of approach. hike on the trail past the tower...
BETA PHOTO: view of approach. hike on the trail past the tower...
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch two....tucker tech climbing
pitch two....tucker tech climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Phil at the second bulge of P1. anchors are next t...
Phil at the second bulge of P1. anchors are next t...
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the best sandstone desert towers anywhere. ...
One of the best sandstone desert towers anywhere. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A quick sketch of one of the ways to approach Coyo...
BETA PHOTO: A quick sketch of one of the ways to approach Coyo...

Comments on Coyote Tower Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 20, 2016
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Mar 30, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Such an amazing line! One of the cleanest cracks in Sedona, but I still pulled a giant block off, so wear your helmet!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 19, 2006

Just another great day of "Sandona" climbing.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 17, 2006

This was a great climb. The (fifth?) dihedral pitch was so clean and nice! Although the third - fourth pitch are loose and a little disconcerting, this is a top Sedona offering.

CL
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 14, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route can be done in 4 pitches with a 70m rope & 3 pitches with an 80m, not including the optional jump-across pitch. Link pitches 2 & 3 (you get some rope drag during the 3rd pitch, but it is mostly 4th class anyway). Pitches 4 & 5 link very nicely with a 70, and one can continue up to the top (linking the final 3 pitches) with an 80.

The optional jump-across pitch at the end is fun to do once, but it is runout on mostly crappy rock then is still a bit of a hike (in climbing shoes) to the top. Rap back to the top of the tower off tree slings.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 26, 2007

Awesome!!! Swapped leads on this great adventure climb. The crux pitch (followed this) was tough, good job Joe!!! Highly recommend this one!!!
By Bennett
From: Southern California
Nov 29, 2008

Climbed the route again for the third time on Nov 22. One of the safer and more classic lines in Sedona, and pitch two, crux pitch has to be one of the better sandstone pitches in AZ. Positioning on final pitch is phenomenal. A couple "muddy" spots but excellent quality overall. Second to last pitch if done as topo explains, has some loose blocks just above start and plugging good gear in the dihedral is crucial just off the belay... in my opinion the only slightly dicey moves of the route are here, other than easy but runout start on pitch one.
By Brian Crockford
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2009

Takes great gear and has some bolts for supplemental protection. As of 4/19/09 the route has excellent belay anchors throughout. Rock was solid with the exception of the "tunnel" on pitch 3 that had a bunch of loose rock that you basically scramble over, and a loose block on pitch 4. For more info take a look at the route and approach topo/drawings uploaded in the photos section. Be safe, have fun!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 28, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This climb is a lot of fun, and is pretty burly throughout!

One thing to watch out for: the first pitch has two ledges that are likely to tweak an ankle in the event of a fall. Make sure you're very attentive on belay!
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 26, 2009

Super fun route! Every pitch is pretty engaging.
By Justin York
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 31, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Love this route. Leave the #4 behind, and go do it!
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 22, 2009

No comments on the rap, so I thought I'd mention it's a plumb line from the top rap on down and you will have seen all the rap anchors on the way up. You do not rap the 2nd pitch but the 3rd pitch anchors land you at the 1st pitch rap anchors with two 60 meter ropes.

This is a great line, with the 2nd pitch being one of the better pitches I've done in AZ.
By Jason Nelson
From: SLC, UT
Nov 14, 2010

There's no good approach beta listed, so here it goes. Take the trail below and past the tower until there is a gully that comes into view to the right of the tower. Head up towards the gully, but go left below the steep slabs guarding the tower. Don't go right up the gully as this will leave you dead ended. Contour the steep slabs left until you are dead ended below the tower on a pedestal of sorts. Look up the slabs above you about 50 ft. and you should see the bolts for the first pitch.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Aug 4, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Rainy season means even more loose rock and there is certainly plenty of it. Even p. 2 now has lots of little blocks going. Still an amazing route.
By Eric Foster
From: Nashville, TN
Dec 20, 2011

Can you rappel off this route with one 80m rope? Or do you need 2 60m ropes. I am climbing this tomorrow, anyone have a quick response?

Thanks
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Dec 20, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Erock you need 2 60's.
By Eric Foster
From: Nashville, TN
Dec 20, 2011

Thanks Mike
By Jacob Fishman
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 5, 2013

Absolutely amazing climbing. Just make sure to hang a hard left once you hit the slabs on the approach (at a 10'-ish triangular shaped boulder), and do not go into the gully.
By climber andy
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

80m will get you down!!! On the fourth rappel you need to down climb a third class slop to reach the last rap station
Rock Climbing Photo: What I thought was a good approach you can see the...
What I thought was a good approach you can see these steps after you hit the big wash. Up past the small dam on you're left
By Sayfe
From: Scottsdale, az
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Pitch I- run out, but well protected at crux
Pitch II: crux, 10C, last 30 feet has two overhangs
Pitch III: just walk though the tunner
Pitch IV: nice 5.9- good pro Pitch V: excellent finger layback start
Pitch VI: steep 9, exposed, interesting last move.

Need two ropes (60) only for rappel from top of pitch III to top of pitch II (no need to drag second rope from top of pitch III to top).




Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the tower... For approach, go all the w...
Looking at the tower... For approach, go all the way around and behind the tower.
By Greg Malloure
From: Prescott Az
Nov 7, 2013

If you are looking for a fun link up you can climb Coyote Tower and then walk over to Oak Creek Spire. The walk takes about an hour from base to base. It is a little route findy but there are plenty of washes and random trails to follow. Even a faint trail going up the saddle of oak spire on the southside. This day makes for about ten pitches averaging five nine, two pitches of 5.8 plus to keep you on your toes and two classic sedona jumps in one day of climbing.
By BenZH
From: Flagstaff AZ
Nov 8, 2013

My # 2 fell out of my pack at the summit on this climb today and when we got down and I realized it was up there it was getting dark. I would get out there this weekend but I have work unfortunately . If any kind soul climbs this and comes across the piece I'll buy you a pint. Cheers.
By Danny G.
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Nov 21, 2014

Definitely stop at the bolted anchor on p1 if you have a 60m rope. Ya can't combine it with the scramble to the base of p2 (and makes for sketchy simulclimbing if you try). A 70m would have worked fine though.
James Q and I had a blast on an otherwise chilly day. High was 40 in Flag but clear and sunny. With an 11am start we were warm and stoked.
I could have used more #1 and #2 C4s near top of crux pitch (p2). Here's what I'll bring next time:
1-Red C3
2-.3 C4
2-.4 C4
2-.5 C4
2-.75 C4
3-1.0 C4
3-2.0 C4
2-3.0 C4
1-4.0 C4
-a few medium nuts
-my 2 fav. medium slung Hexes (yeah, I know...but they're soooo bomber!)
6-extendable slings (not a lot of wandering)
8-draws
SUPER FUN!!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 24, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Nice T-shirt day yesterday and had route to ourselves. Few more notes/tips:
Approach: when following the slick rock wash, trail breaks off just before a man-made retaining wall.
Rack: similar to Danny's recommendation above, but I used - offset MCs purp to red, (1).3-.5 C4, (2) .75 C4, (3)1-2C4, (2)3C4, (1)4C4.

P1: nice spot for #3C4 in first hueco off the deck.
P2: save a 1,2,3C4 for the last 30'.
P3: clean as a whistle compared to 5 yrs ago.
P4: thought this had the most junk rock of the route though easier.
P5: nice corner climbing with great feet throughout. "Dirt clod" is nothing unusual to typical Sedona choss. Bolt protects mantle above it.
P6: nice and exposed with good rests. Rock is a bit hollow at the mid crux.

Raps: instead of dragging/leaving a second rope up to the limestone anchors of P3, another tactic could be to leave it at the P1 anchors. Rap single line from P3-P1 then partner can pull the second line up tied to it to rap from.
By Jim Giordano 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 20, 2016

Climbed this route today in beautiful February weather. Overall a really excellent route with lots of quality climbing. Took a bit of effort to find the start of the first pitch, but eventually spotted a bolt up high. Unless I was off on the start location (don't think so) only good pro in the first 25+ feet is the #3C4 in a Hueco about 10 feet off the deck. I found the steep, slabby moves well above that to be pretty tenuous with VERY real groundfall potential if blown. I am kind of suprised that no other commenters have mentioned this? The route otherwise protects well. Brought the rack suggested by Danny G. and had no complaints. Placed the #4 twice. Swung leads with my buddy who, thankfully, lead the second pitch steller, albeit burly, pitch. Cranked so hard on some of those thing hand jams, I found myself wishing I had taped up. Climbed with a 60 and only combined the second and third pitches. Great route, great day.

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