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Coyote Rain 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Loran Smith & Joshua Corbett July 26, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,181
Submitted By: EDGE on Jul 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Climber pulling the roof.

Description 

Takes a surprisingly easy line directly through the center of the large roof feature on the far right of the cliff. Should become a popular beginner route as it is now thoroughly cleaned, has great protection, and exciting moves on big holds.

P1: From the beech tree at the start of Rona's Roof, face climb straight up (fixed pin on left) then passing climbers right of a small tree, then directly up to a stance under the large roof. Place pro and fire over the roof on huge holds to an easy, broken slab. Pine tree belay with fixed rap station. 70', 5.6

P2: Continue straight up the broken slab to a shared pine tree anchor atop Trifecta. 50', 5.5


Location 

Starts as for Rona's Roof, on a sloping ledge behind a beech tree. Rap the route in two raps from large trees equipped with cord and quick links.

Protection 

Trad rack to 2 1/2" cams; one fixed pin to protect the start. Fixed tree anchors on both pitches. Great gear all the way.


Photos of Coyote Rain Slideshow Add Photo
Joshua Corbett leads the second pitch of Coyote Rain.
Joshua Corbett leads the second pitch of Coyote Ra...
Lincoln Tetherly enjoying the sunset during an afterwork cruise up Coyote Rain
Lincoln Tetherly enjoying the sunset during an aft...
Jon Garlough negotiates the lower face.  Fun moves, good protection, and now cleaned for your climbing enjoyment...  Photo by Joshua "Eye For the Lens" Corbett
Jon Garlough negotiates the lower face. Fun moves...
Loran Smith under the roof on his route Coyote Rain
Loran Smith under the roof on his route Coyote Rai...
Joshua Corbett under the crux roof.
Joshua Corbett under the crux roof.
Climber at the first pitch anchors
Climber at the first pitch anchors
Jimbo under the roof
Jimbo under the roof
Jon Garlough gets ready to fire the roof on Coyote Rain.
Jon Garlough gets ready to fire the roof on Coyote...
Jimmy Jazz eyes the roof.  "Is this a sandbag?"
Jimmy Jazz eyes the roof. "Is this a sandbag?"
Thumbs up for  the Coyote Rain solo train
Thumbs up for the Coyote Rain solo train
Jim at the crux roof.
Jim at the crux roof.
A climber just over the roof Coyote Rain
A climber just over the roof Coyote Rain
Joshua Corbett follows the upper section of Coyote Rain.
Joshua Corbett follows the upper section of Coyote...
Gretta on Coyote Rain, Jay on The Route Vultures and Tom on belay
Gretta on Coyote Rain, Jay on The Route Vultures a...
Jim pulls the roof.
Jim pulls the roof.
Exciting moves with views of Knights Pond and Lake Winnepesaukee out left.
Exciting moves with views of Knights Pond and Lake...
Zackary at the top
Zackary at the top

Comments on Coyote Rain Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2014
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2012

Named for the howling of coyotes and the brief storm prior to the first ascent. The rap off was done in a steady rain.
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2012

Although listed as two pitches, this climbs best as one pitch, extending slings as needed. A 70M rope, thrown directly over the route, will just get you to the ground. Alternatively, the listed first pitch belay tree is fully equipped with a quadrupled runner and quick links.
By tommyguns
Sep 12, 2012

This is an awesome route and great for those new to leading. The views are unreal!
By Jason Denver
Sep 22, 2012

This is a must do at this cliff. Absolutely fantastic for the grade.
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 24, 2012

We climbed this again the other night by headlamp under the crescent moon and full compliment of stars, and this thought came up in conversation: Is this the best single pitch of 5.6 in NH?
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I think so I have done a lot of 5.6 pitches and I can't think of a better one.
By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Sep 24, 2012

Awesome route. It just might be:)
By burlap submariner
Apr 5, 2013

I thought it was named for a porn star?
By Mark NH
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Really enjoyed the climb - but thought the roof moves were much harder than 5.6. Maybe it just exploits an old guys weakness. And maybe its a "how tall you are" thing too. I'd say 5.8-
By Dan Felix
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I think the roof move definitely favors taller people. I'm 6'3" and have no issues with it, my 5'3" girlfriend definitely struggles at the roof.

Awesome route, did both pitches today, first time I was on it I only did the first pitch.
By Chris NH
Oct 14, 2014

Fantastic climb, my first trad lead climb. Easy climbing separated by a committing pull over the ledge. Beautiful views from the tree anchors. A green Black Diamond cam placed in the first horizontal crack above the lip helped to ease the fear of taking a fall onto the ledge beneath the overhang.

Hats off to those who developed this area... the hard work is quite evident.