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 ADVANCED
Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Block, The T 
Castrum, The T 
Chessboard, The T 
Coco-Loco T 
Court Jester T 
Coyote In the Bushes T 
Crown Jewels T 
Drawbridge, The TR 
Duchess T 
Duchess Left T 
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 
Duchess Right T 
La Reina T 
Marchesa T 
Monaco S 
Not Just another Pretty Face T 
Paper or Plastic? T 
Pocket Pool S 
Route 1326 T 
Scaramouch T 
Swishbah T 

Coyote In the Bushes 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford & Gabe, February 1989
Page Views: 656
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Jan 15, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Coyote in the Bushes.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This is a curious route: the chalk line moves up well right of the first bolt then left between the first and second bolts; and, after leading it, I understand. Getting to the first bolt is serious business. If you blow it, ask the medics for demerol; it's a trip.

Protection 

4 bolts, pro to 3" for anchors


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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 22, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Decent enough climbing on this route and somehow it's position on the left edge of the wall makes this less crowded than some of the other routes.

This route is somewhat infamous due to the fact that a number of years back a climber died on this route due to a crucial fixed pin being misssing from the horizontal (which has since been replaced with a bolt) and the climber continued past, fell and hit his head.

There were approximately 50-75 fixed pins stolen from JT that season, some of which have been replaced, some not. Rumor has it the thieves were some dirtbag climbers who wanted to put together a "cheap" pin rack for The Valley.
By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

If you bring some medium cams for the belayer at the ledge the leader could feel a little better about pulling for the first bolt. (we didn't but...)
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Hard at the start.
By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Mar 8, 2012

The hardest part is between bolt 1 and 2. Did it in 5.10 (appropo) Camp 4s today (Toproped). Proves that you don't need edging skills on this one--you need smearing skills.
By Garrett Harmsen
From: Charlotte, NC
Dec 11, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Perfectly safe and definitely not R, if you fell before the 1st bolt you would land easily on the flat, spacious ledge