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Greg on Coyne Crack
Short and sweet, this is a steep finger crack visible near the base of the thumb.
From PlumbLine, look up towards the base of the thumb area. It is the obvious fingercrack that starts with a rightward lean and then heads straight up the wall.
An approch pitch up the easy corner will get you to an anchor on a tree at the base of the route. Head up and once you are at the top, you will see anchors to your right.
Mostly Finger sized pieces the entire way. Make sure you have at least doubles of 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5. Stoppers are also handy and a good placement can be found nearly anywhere if you can hold on long enough to use it.
The upper section. Look like Yosemite?
Looking down at crux midway up route
From: SL UT
May 1, 2009
Apparently there is no correlation between route length and stars awarded. This route is disappointingly short. MINUS AT LEAST ONE STAR IMMEDIATELY!:) This is like a low quality version of Yosemite's Butterballs. It is nice to actually climb a real finger crack in LCC.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Oct 14, 2011
Stellar splitter. One of the best hard cracks in Little for sure. It is a bit on the short side, but what it lacks in length it compensates for in quality and aesthetics. It is broken down into 2 sections. The 11d crux is the first 10 feet of offset right leaning .5 camalots but once you hit the vertical .3 locks it is SO GOOD! Then you hit a ledge of sorts for a great rest before finishing up on a lower angle section with really good locks and a final cruxy move pulling onto the 5th class slab. A bit of a struggle to get to as it involves some scrambling and then a 5.6 section of climbing to reach the grove of barely thriving shrubs upon which you tie yourself to, but its worth it. A double set of cams from .3 to .5 camalot is great with a nut or two along with a cam in the red c3 size range. Nothing bigger fits. You can rig an anchor with medium nuts or small cams for TR sessions. Rappel down from the S Crack anchors 20 ft up and right from the topout back to the belay bushel. One 60m plenty.