|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Leonard Coyne 1978|
|Submitted By:||Zac Robinson on Oct 11, 2008|
|Comments on Coyne Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: SL UT
May 1, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
|Apparently there is no correlation between route length and stars awarded. This route is disappointingly short. MINUS AT LEAST ONE STAR IMMEDIATELY!:) This is like a low quality version of Yosemite's Butterballs. It is nice to actually climb a real finger crack in LCC.|
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Oct 14, 2011
|Stellar splitter. One of the best hard cracks in Little for sure. It is a bit on the short side, but what it lacks in length it compensates for in quality and aesthetics. It is broken down into 2 sections. The 11d crux is the first 10 feet of offset right leaning .5 camalots but once you hit the vertical .3 locks it is SO GOOD! Then you hit a ledge of sorts for a great rest before finishing up on a lower angle section with really good locks and a final cruxy move pulling onto the 5th class slab. A bit of a struggle to get to as it involves some scrambling and then a 5.6 section of climbing to reach the grove of barely thriving shrubs upon which you tie yourself to, but its worth it. A double set of cams from .3 to .5 camalot is great with a nut or two along with a cam in the red c3 size range. Nothing bigger fits. You can rig an anchor with medium nuts or small cams for TR sessions. Rappel down from the S Crack anchors 20 ft up and right from the topout back to the belay bushel. One 60m plenty.|
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 8, 2013
What a great, short route. I recommend belaying at the lower set of scrub oaks (in Spencer's "looking down at crux" picture, you can see them about 30 ft down from the upper belay). The traditional upper belay anchor is a nasty scrub oak hanging stance from old tat, and the oak is about 80% dead. Belaying from the lower set of bushes is much better for the belayer (comfy), the bushes are more robust, there is no rope drag produced by belaying there, and your leader gets a softer catch when they come off at the crux.
The gear beta from others is spot-on. I used two each .3,.4,.5 camalots, an orange metolius and a blue (#1) metolius. Don't bother hanging around to place nuts. However, If you belay at the lower set of bushes per my recommendation, take along a #3 and .75 camalot for that initial section, and a few runners.
The off-fingers section near the beginning is strenuous for about 10 feet, until you get to great tight fingers as the wall gets steeper. The big rest 'ledge' in the middle is nice, and the upper section is considerably easier than the bottom half. Too bad this thing is so short!
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
A totally awesome climb.
I got on this hoping to push myself since 5.11d is clearly out of my onsight or even single fall range. No, multiple falls were taken. But the great thing about this crack is that it protects well.
A lesson in pain tolerance and endurance (for us mere mortals who are still putzing around in the 5.10 range). I'm not sure the complaints about it being too short are warranted; it was plenty long for me!
A few notes:
1, approach from The Thumb gully, rope up to the base and then haul your stuff up. The ascent over by the rope ladder is tricky, dirty, and difficult with a pack.
2, expect two raps from the S-crack anchors. Maybe we did it wrong, but I found swinging over to the first set of anchors a bit of a gamble. Instead we rapped down to the first grove of trees (full 70m) and then down to the base.